Fatehpur Sikri Series: Part 2

I was simply amazed as to how my time passed away strolling through the courtyards and corridors of this amazing Jodhabai Palace.( Click on this link to read the earlier Part 1) The place left me spell bound.I came out from the large gate and moved for the further exploration of the Fatehpur Sikri complex.

As soon as I walked out of the Palace and took a left, I was almost taken by this awesome sight of large courtyard nestled among the different red sandstone structures all around me.

Awesome sight of large courtyard opens up in front of me

If you look at the picture above, you will notice a Life size board to play the game of Pacchisi or a precursor of Ludo game and at the back  of it in the background is the Diwan-e-Khaas. So from here we moved towards the Diwan-e-Khaas. Let us see, what it has to show us.

Standing here facing the Diwan-e-Khaas you realise how big and beautiful is the entire complex.

Diwan-e-Khaas

Diwan-e-Khaas is a unique structure in this entire complex of Indo - Islamic architecture,raised on the square platform. outwardly giving the appearance of double storied building. It consist of a single vaulted chamber open from floor to roof,with an opening on each of the four side of the centre square.The next prominent thing one notice is the Pillar in the centre of the room.Talking of the pillar, it must be said its so richly carved and designed that one simply cannot help marveling at it.

Richly designed central Pillar of Diwan-e -Khas

A closer look of the richly carved central pillar

I was told that the central platform attached to this pillar was the seat of the emperor Akbar and my reply to that was Bhai yeh baat kuch hajam nahi hui. (Sometimes we have to take the stories of the guides with pinch of salt) and the galleries above are believed to be seats of ministers and nobles.Somehow I felt that  galleries were too narrow.( Ministers must be feeling themselves to be in tight spot ).Whatever the discomfort for ministers, for me a view from below gave an impressive image of the gigantic central carved pillar with the viewing galleries. Aap bhi ek look lelo bhai 

A view from below of the galleries and,the central pillar

How I wish I could make your life easier when it comes to understanding history but it is not to be, Har aadmi ke pass ek nayi kahani hai to tell you. If I go through the Stone Plaque placed outside this Diwan-e-khaas  It says that This room was called as Diwan -e-Khaas (Hall of Private audience), then it also mentions it as IBADAT KHANA (Hall for Religious Discourses), and then some people consider it to be a hall used for TULADANA ( Weighing Ceremony) of Emperor and Prince on Persian New Year.In fact the Plaque mentions this as Treasury room with Diwan-e-khaas written in Bracket.( I was like Akbarji aap ke pass itna maal tha teen alag room hi banwa lete, Ab kar diya na confusion)

Another view of the pillar.

 Though the room does't have much ornamentation but yet the central pillar simply takes your breath away with its beauty. One small info on this pillar, it has 36 brackets in three tier circular layers as you can see above and just like this central pillar there are matching pillars in the corners of this room.

I went into this structure with the info that I shall be visiting Diwan-e-Khaas lekin bahar nikala with ek per do ka offer 

Oh History ! I am simply loving it. 

Well time to move on to our next Surprise !!!

Link to the earlier Part 1 Fatehpur Sikri | Part 1 | Jodhabai Palace

Fatehpur Sikri Series:Part 1

Last few days were very hectic for me, especially when the occasion was the marriage of my younger sister.As the marriage was in Delhi I decided to use it to the hilt, perhaps that was the reason that I decided to combine the marriage celebration with my wanderings.

Yeah jo weekend wanderer ki atma hai na,
yeh kabhi sudar nahi sakti 

Wandering soul of a weekend wanderer 

Therefore once all marriage functions got over, I decided that the time has come for me to escape to my next destination.This time my partner in crime was non other than my wife (Thank god she is getting used to my wayward ways). Before she could react with any ifs and buts I told her that I have booked 2 tickets for the morning train Taj express and we are going to Agra.

All set to catch Taj Express to Agra

Taj Express left Nizamuddin Station  at 7.08 am and we reached Agra Cantt at 10.45 am. As this program of mine was as usual on the spot decision so there was no particular research or bookings made by me. On the train I enquired from the people as to how should I reach Fatehpur Sikri. I was told that there are lots of buses going to Fatepur Sikri from Idgah Bus Stand, however while coming back there could be issue as the return service is little dicey. Alternatively I can catch Shared Jeep while coming back. As my visit was only for a day so saving time was very high on my agenda otherwise I would have loved to travel on local transport.Luckily for me I happen to see this IRCTC travel office at the Agra Cantt Station itself and believe me my problem got sorted out. They had this car facility which you can hire and visit Fatehpur Sikri, Agra Fort and Taj Mahal in a day. They had other choices too but my time limit was permitting me this only.

We quickly jumped into the car and were soon on our way to Fatehpur Sikri. Our car maneuvered through the narrow and busy streets of Agra and in no time we were on the highway, our car speeding through the fields and villages and my heart knew no joy because it was my childhood fantasy to be at Fatehpur Sikri.I could feel the Mughal History opening its door for me.

Rasta hamara takna, Darwaaza khula rakhna

Lene tujhe O gori, Aayenge tere sajna...

Fatehpur Sikri Here I come

For majority of tourist if it is Agra then it must be Taj Mahal but honestly speaking as far as I was concerned it was not the Taj that was beckoning me instead it was the Mystical Fatehpur Sikri. One may be tempted to ask me why Mystical, well actually there is a childhood fascination attached to my wanting to come to Fatehpur Sikri.The dream to go and see this mystical and ghostly town germinated when I happen to watch this hindi movie Lal Pathar which presented the place in mystical light, full of intrigue and suspense.

A ghost town or a mystical marvel

Ab bas kya tha Chipak gayi yeh yaad and mai hamesha bolta raha ki ek din Fatehpur Sikri Zaroor jaunga.

Bhai kisne sach hi kaha hai Purana pyar aur purani yaad jaldi peecha nahi chodti....Satati rehti hai.

So with an excited heart beat and baited breath I was all set to explore this Moghul legacy.

Entering through the Agra Darwaza

As our car entered the complex through the Agra Darwaza , I began to get the fleeting glances of the Fatehpur Sekri. First look of the ruins after entering this Agra Gate was just a teaser of things to follow.

First sightings as we entered the Agra Gate

After a 5 minutes drive from here we reached the parking lot of the Fatepur Sikri. From here onwards one has to take the State bus till the entrance of the Fatepur Sikri Gate.My car driver had informed me that they will charge 10 Rs and I need not pay for my return journey.(Its a different thing that they did charge for my return journey and never gave me a ticket for the same).This bus journey lasted less than 5 minutes and I found myself standing at the gates of Fatehpur Sikri.

Add caption

I bought the entry ticket from the gate. Rs 20, and moved into the complex. Before entering this let us get through some history of this place. 

History

In the year 1568 Akbar,on advise of his close aide decided to take the blessing of the Sufi Saint Salim Chisti who lived in this town of Sikri around 40 kms away from Agra.The saint not only blesses Emperor Akbar with a son and heir but also with additional sons. Shortly after this visit Akbar gets the news that his wife is expecting a child.The over-joyous Emperor then builds a magnificent house for his pregnant queen near the saint's dwelling at Sikri.In the year 1959 queen Jodha gives birth to the child who is named Salim, after the Sufi saint. This same prince Salim later came to be known as Emperor Jahangir. Considering the Sufi saint to be a good omen Akbar decides to shift his capital from Agra to Sikri. Here after he personally supervise to build an architect marvel, a complete planned walled city , which almost took 15 years to complete in planning and construction of series of Royal Palaces, Harem, courts, Mosque and other administrative building which encompasses Mughal and the Persian culture in one of the most beautiful manner. 

Map of the complex (source Internet)

With the Map given above our journey together of this city will be more easier and interesting. As you can see We moved in from behind the ticket counter and was greeted by this board.

Moving from here towards the Jodhabai Palace

We entered from here and upon coming inside the grand picturesque Red sandstone complex unfolded before us.

Part of Jodhabai Palace

Walking towards the right but further ahead we come across the entrance of Jodhabai  Palace.

Grand entrance of Jodhabai Palace

Jodhabai was also known as Mariam -uz-Zamani. This title was bestowed upon her when she gave birth to Jahangir .Jodhabai's palace is basically a structure built as a house of the principal queen.The outer walls of this fort is 32 feet tall.Entering from this entrance you come to a large courtyard.

Large courtyard at the centre of Jodhabai palace.

This whole palace complex measures around 320 feet by 215 feet consisting of this large central courtyard with buildings arranged around its periphery.One can also find lots of influence of Hindu architecture especially when you note the pillars,niches or brackets.

Influence of Hindu Temple architecture 

Another interesting thing that one notice is the application of blue glaze tiles on one of the roof and cupola.

Blue glaze tiles on the roof

Standing at the centre of the courtyard of this Palace I relived the history. Thinking how the queen lived, It is believed that she was politically involved in the administration through out her life until Noorjahan became empress. It was now time for me to move out of this palace to another part of the Fatehpur Sikri Complex and see what more it has to offer me. Till the time you absorb this historical journey soon I'll join you with the next part of Fatehpur series till then happy reading. 

Link to Fatehpur Sikri Part 2 fatehpur-sikri-series-part-2 DIWAAN-E-KHAAS

Thank You

Bhaskargad Aka Basgad

Though it was friendship day this Sunday yet none of my regular friends had planned anything therefore when late in the night I got call from Swapnali, I immediately agreed to join her for the trek to Bhaskargad Trek.( Honestly I am a sucker for any offbeat kind of trek, so it was simply impossible for me not to go) 

Lure of Offbeat Destinations

However one thing amused me in her invitation, When I said I am in, she very curtly messaged that you have to catch 5.20 am Kasara Local and don't miss the train at any cost !! Saala aise sunker trekker ego hurt no gaya, and I also replied back in the same curt manner and cheekily said "You can leave me if I miss the train" 

because I have been trekking quite long now and know the importance of the timing. But then dosto me aise nok jok chalti rehti hai. Friends you would be wondering what's the big deal about 5.20 am Kasara local, well the fact of the matter is that that if you miss this train the next one is almost at 7.00 am and due to this the whole trek can go for a toss.


Anyways we caught this train, I been the first one to reach Dadar station, After all who can withstand the wrath of a women.Rest of the gang also joined in and we were six people altogether. It was 7.45 when we reached Kasara. As we had not made any booking of Pvt Jeep prior hand so we had to depend on the local public transport. Talking about local public transport let me tell you that there is no direct transport to Nirgudpada, One has to take a jeep till Khodala Village and then take another jeep from there to the base village Nirgudpada.We rushed out of the station and boarded the local jeep, the driver kept cramming the people to the  extent that the jeep may explode.
16 people in an 8 seater 

Bundled together in jam packed Jeep

 Imagine how crazy India can go. Bhushan who works in Mahindra, we kept joking  with him ki Mahindra walo ko bol kitna kum space diya hai Ghadi me, model ko rework karo.
16 people in a jeep !! and no idea kiska kya  kider hai ... obviously pun intended.But friends Trek ke yeah hi majje hai, all the discomfort of the world only encourages us to be more tough and courageous. All the jerks and bumps not withstanding the journey through the Kasara ghat is one of the most amazing journey full of lush greenery, flowing rivers, multiple waterfalls and overhang of the clouds all around only add to the aura of mystic and beauty.

Lush greenery coupled with flowing river

Everything surrounded in a mist

In 45 minutes we reached Khodala village and from here we had to now catch another Jeep, Luckily for us one local jeep was there , ready to go for Trimbakeshewar Temple.

Jeeps waiting at Khodala Village to go to Trimbakeshwar

So we boarded the jeep and continued our journey further, Nirgudpada comes 20 kms before Trimbakeshwar so one can take jeeps going to trimbakeshwar. Our journey took another 40 minutes and It was around 9.30 when we reached the base village.

Base village Nirgudpada

Suddenly the rain welcomed us on our touch down at the base village so we all quickly rearranged our bags, all mobile going in and all raincoats coming out and we were all ready for our trek.

All set for the trek

Let me tell you Nirgudpada is a base village to another very famous Fort, Harihar and the proof of its popularity is the number of jeeps and buses parked at the village. 

Buses and Jeeps crowding the base Village

Harihar fort is famous for its 70 degree rock cut steps, Now its a different matter that with so many trekkers thronging this fort, I dread to think about the plight of people stuck in a human traffic jam on those stairs.

Trekker Traffic jam at Harihar

Thankfully for us no such worries, because we were not with the crowds, we were on our way to Bhaskergad aka Basgad Fort. Neglected and lesser explored by the regular trekkers.

Once you reach the Nirgudpada, one has to walk little backward and you come across the fork road,

Fork Road

Left side road is the one which is coming from Kasara so we should take the road on our right from this Fork junction and as you are walking  you will see Harihar and Fani Dongar on your right too. 

Fani Dongar from the road

the walk on this tar road is of about 15-20 minutes and you can in fact see the bhaskergad fort right in front of you.

Who would not like to take such pleasant walk

Basgad or Bhasker Gad fort on Top left side

 We took our sweet time clicking pictures 
Actually the scenery on both the side was so eye pleasing ki photo ka break toh banta hi tha

amazing eye catching views

as we were not knowing the route so we kept inquiring with the locals whenever we happen to see some hut.

Checking with locals about the route

After walking on this tar road at one point the tar road gets over and the katcha road starts.

Katcha road after the tar section gets over

A little walk from here and we come across a bridge and just 100 metres ahead of  this you have to take left detour to start the trek.

Katcha road and the bridge

Just taking the detour to your left from the road there is a muddy  trail leading into the woods. This is the start point of the trek from where the actual climb starts.

Your trek starts from this muddy trail

View after a little climb

This muddy path is just a gentle climb initially with some rocky sections but can be trekked easily.

Rocky section

and a climb of another 15 minutes we come across open area. from where following  the trail we took left turn and started trekking further.

Moving to the left from the plateau

After a little distance we soon reached a point where there was this small waterfall. We refreshed ourselves here

Time to refresh

We also took some group pictures as this place offered amazing views.

Mesmerizing beauty of Fani and Harihar 

With this micro break we started moving forward, all this while Fani peak was on our left, but soon we realised that we were on the wrong trail as we neared dead end, we retraced few distance and saw one trail going towards the right so we took right turn and started further climb

Taking right turn we come across a large clearing 

 Looking upward we could see the end of mountain and the skyline so we decided to reach there first.Taking switch back route we started our climb. 

Switch back climb

One observation that I want to make here is that in order to reach the fort the best bet for this trek is to just remember that the point from where you started your climbing you have to reach the plateau
and keep walking towards the left and while you are doing so, most of the time Fani Dongar and Harihar will be on your left and keep your eye on the top and once you reach the top another plateau is there.

walking on the plateau toward the rock formation ahead of me

start walking towards your left and as you do so you will see this gigantic Rock Formation. 

Gigantic Rock Formation

Once you reach near the rock formation start traversing from the right side and you would notice cave cut out in this rock and on your right is deep valley.

Traversing from the right

While traversing this path we have to be very careful because at few portions there are stream water flowing and crossing them becomes an extremely risky,

Risky crossings

especially in rainy season due to the moss collected on the rocks the stone becomes extremely slippery. Its my humble advise to future trekkers, please carry rope as a precaution.It could be very helpful for crossing this kind of slippery portion.

It's a different matter that we were not carrying rope with us but we took help of each other and managed to cross. In summer crossing this kind of stone section may not be difficult.

Helping each other cross the slippery patches

After traversing for few minutes we came across the entrance steps. This steps are cut through the mountain stone, The steps are quite high almost 2 feet  each, these stones steps are currently in a very bad state and with moss on it it has become all the more slippery.

Slippery stone cut steps

View from the top of the steps

OMG !!! how I wish
I was little taller to conquer these steps

 we gradually climbed and entered a narrow stone wall passage ( I think keeping  this passage narrow must have helped to trap or control the enemy from entering the fort). 

climbing through narrow passage

In ruins, Neglected !!

This narrow passage section is in complete ruins today. after passing through this passage we come across the main entrance of the fort. The only peculiar thing about this fort entrance is that it is buried in the soil perhaps due to negligence  over passage of time. 

Main gate partly buried in the soil

In order to enter this gate we have to crawl and enter because as you can see there is very less height. Upon entering I saw one more steps though they were not many.

Small steps after entering

Main gate as seen from top of stairs

View after coming out from that stairs

 After coming out from that stairs We saw that there is a little more section of climb to be undertaken to reach the topmost portion. So making our way through the overgrown grass we climbed further and reached the top. All through this walking and climbing among the overgrown grass the worry of snake popping it's head was always on my mind, I treaded carefully and thanked my stars on reaching the top.

View from the top is always beautiful

As I always say that the view from the top is always beautiful and it was no different here because far on the horizon one can see Fani Dongar perched majestically on the top and the huge Harihar and beyond that Bharmagiri fort in its full glory everything was enveloped in clouds the breeze so lovely and lush greenery spread far and wide made the atmosphere magical.

Fani behind that Harihar and behind that Bhramgiri

Nature at its best

We started to explore the top, right at the entrance there was this water cistern.

Water Cistern

From this water cistern we started moving towards the right of the top,the next thing we see is the ruined structure 

Ruined structure

After walking along this structure we come across another natural water pond and beyond that there was an Hanuman Idol.

Natural water pond with
Hanuman idol behind it

I offered my prayers and thanked for the safe trek.

Hanuman Idol

After exploring the top Swapnali and me returned back only to notice rest our gang was getting restless because it was nearing lunch time and here both of us were busy clicking photos.

Our restless friends and
Swapnali watching them

Sitting on Top of the fort and having lunch with friends is the most fulfilling experience, Some discussion , some time management strategy for the descend and we were over with our lunch and bid adieu to the top but not before Selfie le le re (La Salman Style)

Le le le le Selfie lele

Soon we began our return journey. we were very quick on our way
back finishing the descend in almost 1:15 minutes and then relaxing in the stream which was flowing.

Return transport is a big issue from Nirgudpada, we were lucky to get transport from there to khondala village and jeep back to Kasara to catch 6.18 local to CST.

We were told that there is a bus at 5 pm from Nirgudpada for Kasara, But we didn't wait for that. If you have any information regarding bus please help me to update.

All in all a lovely Friendship day trek. Special thanks to Tushar Patil for ensuring that we find the way and don't get lost.