Haji Ali | Mumbai Darshan Series

Its now over 50 years that I have been staying in Mumbai. The financial capital of  India but yet within this financial capital there are some real gems of historical delight, architectural elegance and so many other facets that this city hides in its womb. Through this Mumbai Darshan Series, I intend to uncover some famous and some lesser explored places and structures of Mumbai.This is my humble contribution to my city hope you guys like it.

My first place of visit would be Haji Ali Dargah. Millions of mumbaikar pass along this famous Mosque but not many may have actually visited it. In my entire life span of more than 50 years I had visited it once only!

In  the hustle and bustle of the Mumbai city the Haji Ali Dargah is a mosque/Dargah located on an islet off the coast of Worli in the southern part of Mumbai. The Dargah contains the tomb of Sayed Peer Haji Ali Shah Bukhari.

The Haji Ali Dargah was constructed in 1431. in memory of a wealthy Muslim merchant, Sayyed Peer Haji Ali Shah Bukhari, who gave up all his worldly possessions before making a pilgrimage to Mecca. Hailing from Bukhara, in present-day Uzbekistan, Bukhari travelled around the world in the early to mid 15th century, and eventually settled in present-day Mumbai.

Story behind this Dargah:

Stories excites me to no end and I was sure that there would legend or tale or Rivayat as they say about this Haji Ali Dargah. It is learnt from "Rivayat" (Legends) that Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari (R.A.) was sitting at some lonely place in his hometown and was busy in his prayers when a lady passed-by from there crying and screaming. When the Saint 
 enquired about her crying, she pointed to an empty vessel 
in her hand and said that she had dropped some oil. And if she goes home without the oil her husband would beat her. She was crying in need of help. The Saint asked her to be calm and went with her to the place where the oil had been dropped. He then took the vessel from the wailing lady and pushed the earth with his thumb. The oil came out like a fountain and the vessel was full. The Saint gave her the vessel with oil and she went away happily.

However, after that, the Saint was troubled by dreams of having wounded the earth by striking it in this manner. Full of remorse and grief from that day he became very serious and was not keeping well. Then with the permission of his mother he traveled to India with his brother and finally reached the shores of Mumbai – near Worli or at some

 place opposite the present tomb. His brother went back to their native place. Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari sent a letter with him to their mother informing her that he was keeping good health and that he had decided to reside at that place permanently for the spread of Islam and that she should forgive him. 

Till his death he was praying and giving knowledge about Islam to the people and devotees regularly visiting him. Before his death he has advised his followers that they should not bury Him at any proper place or graveyard and should drop his shroud ('kafan') in the ocean such that it should be buried by the people where it is found.

His wish was obeyed by his followers. That is why the Dargah Sharief is built at the very site where his shroud came to rest in the middle of the sea where it was perched  on a small mound of rocks rising above the sea. The Tomb and Dargah Sharief were built in the years to come.( Source : www.hajialidargah.in ). 

  

Pathway to the Dargah

As the mosque is located around 500 metres away from the mainland one has to walk down the narrow pathway from the mahalaxmi side to the mosque. This causeway is around one Few metres long. Hence the accessibility to the mosque is very dependent on the tides because the causeway is not bound with any railings, thus during the high tide time the causeway get submerged in the sea water and the way becomes inaccessible to the devotees. 

Walking down this causeway is one of the highlight of visiting this mosque and as you walk you see local made decorative pieces and souvenirs  

Vendors selling souvenirs 

Let us now enter the mosque and see what hidden delights are in store for us. after walking on the causeway we reach the entrance of the mosque which has this huge entrance gate with marble steps.

As I entered the premises I was stuck with awe with the angelic beauty of the white marble mosque standing in front of me, upon inquiring I was told that this mosque was renovated with the first and second grade of white marble which was transported from from Makrana, Rajasthan. The same place from where the marble for Taj Mahal was brought. 

The Dargah Complex consists of :

Main Dargah Building housing the tomb of Pir Haji AliShah Bukhari

On the left side as we enter the complex is a ground plus 2 floor Sanatorium blocks. 

Sanatorium blocks.

Then there is a Qawal Khana.

A prayer hall for men and women.

Minaret.

Minaret

Let me take you to the main building which houses the tomb of the saint.

As soon as you enter you feel the spiritual presence with a huge chandelier gleaming in golden light and the glittering silver walls around me. I stood there for few minutes, paying my respect to the saint, with the sounds of prayers from Qawal Khana.

Glittering Golden lights

As you come out from the shrine and move towards your left  side you see a large prayer hall or Namaz hall for gents. I was told that on the other side of this hall there is a prayer hall for women folk.

Prayer Hall next to the Tomb

The prayer hall looked so peaceful, the red carpet and the marble arches with beautiful designs embed on the pillars.

Beautiful designs on the marble arches

The windows in this hall looks very beautiful because of zali type carving and they too adds to the ambiance and spiritual atmosphere.

Zali Type windows

Coming out of the prayer hall the strong sea breeze hit you with a pleasure beyond expression. I turn around only to see a beautiful dargah with an equally impressive minaret.

Beautiful Marble Dargah

 White marble inviting you to touch it,feel it and yet you are apprehensive and think "kahi mere haat lagane se yeh maila toh hai ho jayega"  So serene and pure this white marble appears. 

Imposing Minaret

Talking of white marble, As I had mentioned earlier in this blog, I was told that the marble used here is actually Makrana Marble, the same type which was used for constructing Taj Mahal. So in other words you can say Mumbai has its own Taj Mahal. ( I know Taj Mahal is way more beautiful then most of the monuments put together) Lekin Mumbai ki collar tight karne ke liye as they say "Kehne me kya harz hai."

After spending some time admiring the beauty of the Dargah one can spend some time on the black rocks behind the Dargah. The view from there of Mumbai skyline is mesmersing and the lashing waves are music to the ears.

For me Haji Ali hold the place of pride as Mumbai's Taj Mahal, where more than 100000 visitors visit every week.It was now time to bid adieu and look out for another new destination.

You make like this Champaner Series


How to reach:

Rail: Mumbai Central and Mahalaxmi Railway station is the nearest railway station, One needs to get out on the west side of the station and take local taxi or City Bus.The distance from Mumbai central station is approx 3.3kms and from Mahalaxmi station its 2,2 kms.

Road:Many BEST buses ply from different points of the city to Haji Ali daily. you can click on this link to search for the bus information BEST buses route network.

Air: Haji ali is 18,2 kms from the Domestic airport and 18.4kms from International Airport Mumbai.Its almost an hour drive if you are taking a cab.

Fatehpur Sikri Series:Part 1

Last few days were very hectic for me, especially when the occasion was the marriage of my younger sister.As the marriage was in Delhi I decided to use it to the hilt, perhaps that was the reason that I decided to combine the marriage celebration with my wanderings.

Yeah jo weekend wanderer ki atma hai na,
yeh kabhi sudar nahi sakti 

Wandering soul of a weekend wanderer 

Therefore once all marriage functions got over, I decided that the time has come for me to escape to my next destination.This time my partner in crime was non other than my wife (Thank god she is getting used to my wayward ways). Before she could react with any ifs and buts I told her that I have booked 2 tickets for the morning train Taj express and we are going to Agra.

All set to catch Taj Express to Agra

Taj Express left Nizamuddin Station  at 7.08 am and we reached Agra Cantt at 10.45 am. As this program of mine was as usual on the spot decision so there was no particular research or bookings made by me. On the train I enquired from the people as to how should I reach Fatehpur Sikri. I was told that there are lots of buses going to Fatepur Sikri from Idgah Bus Stand, however while coming back there could be issue as the return service is little dicey. Alternatively I can catch Shared Jeep while coming back. As my visit was only for a day so saving time was very high on my agenda otherwise I would have loved to travel on local transport.Luckily for me I happen to see this IRCTC travel office at the Agra Cantt Station itself and believe me my problem got sorted out. They had this car facility which you can hire and visit Fatehpur Sikri, Agra Fort and Taj Mahal in a day. They had other choices too but my time limit was permitting me this only.

We quickly jumped into the car and were soon on our way to Fatehpur Sikri. Our car maneuvered through the narrow and busy streets of Agra and in no time we were on the highway, our car speeding through the fields and villages and my heart knew no joy because it was my childhood fantasy to be at Fatehpur Sikri.I could feel the Mughal History opening its door for me.

Rasta hamara takna, Darwaaza khula rakhna

Lene tujhe O gori, Aayenge tere sajna...

Fatehpur Sikri Here I come

For majority of tourist if it is Agra then it must be Taj Mahal but honestly speaking as far as I was concerned it was not the Taj that was beckoning me instead it was the Mystical Fatehpur Sikri. One may be tempted to ask me why Mystical, well actually there is a childhood fascination attached to my wanting to come to Fatehpur Sikri.The dream to go and see this mystical and ghostly town germinated when I happen to watch this hindi movie Lal Pathar which presented the place in mystical light, full of intrigue and suspense.

A ghost town or a mystical marvel

Ab bas kya tha Chipak gayi yeh yaad and mai hamesha bolta raha ki ek din Fatehpur Sikri Zaroor jaunga.

Bhai kisne sach hi kaha hai Purana pyar aur purani yaad jaldi peecha nahi chodti....Satati rehti hai.

So with an excited heart beat and baited breath I was all set to explore this Moghul legacy.

Entering through the Agra Darwaza

As our car entered the complex through the Agra Darwaza , I began to get the fleeting glances of the Fatehpur Sekri. First look of the ruins after entering this Agra Gate was just a teaser of things to follow.

First sightings as we entered the Agra Gate

After a 5 minutes drive from here we reached the parking lot of the Fatepur Sikri. From here onwards one has to take the State bus till the entrance of the Fatepur Sikri Gate.My car driver had informed me that they will charge 10 Rs and I need not pay for my return journey.(Its a different thing that they did charge for my return journey and never gave me a ticket for the same).This bus journey lasted less than 5 minutes and I found myself standing at the gates of Fatehpur Sikri.

Add caption

I bought the entry ticket from the gate. Rs 20, and moved into the complex. Before entering this let us get through some history of this place. 

History

In the year 1568 Akbar,on advise of his close aide decided to take the blessing of the Sufi Saint Salim Chisti who lived in this town of Sikri around 40 kms away from Agra.The saint not only blesses Emperor Akbar with a son and heir but also with additional sons. Shortly after this visit Akbar gets the news that his wife is expecting a child.The over-joyous Emperor then builds a magnificent house for his pregnant queen near the saint's dwelling at Sikri.In the year 1959 queen Jodha gives birth to the child who is named Salim, after the Sufi saint. This same prince Salim later came to be known as Emperor Jahangir. Considering the Sufi saint to be a good omen Akbar decides to shift his capital from Agra to Sikri. Here after he personally supervise to build an architect marvel, a complete planned walled city , which almost took 15 years to complete in planning and construction of series of Royal Palaces, Harem, courts, Mosque and other administrative building which encompasses Mughal and the Persian culture in one of the most beautiful manner. 

Map of the complex (source Internet)

With the Map given above our journey together of this city will be more easier and interesting. As you can see We moved in from behind the ticket counter and was greeted by this board.

Moving from here towards the Jodhabai Palace

We entered from here and upon coming inside the grand picturesque Red sandstone complex unfolded before us.

Part of Jodhabai Palace

Walking towards the right but further ahead we come across the entrance of Jodhabai  Palace.

Grand entrance of Jodhabai Palace

Jodhabai was also known as Mariam -uz-Zamani. This title was bestowed upon her when she gave birth to Jahangir .Jodhabai's palace is basically a structure built as a house of the principal queen.The outer walls of this fort is 32 feet tall.Entering from this entrance you come to a large courtyard.

Large courtyard at the centre of Jodhabai palace.

This whole palace complex measures around 320 feet by 215 feet consisting of this large central courtyard with buildings arranged around its periphery.One can also find lots of influence of Hindu architecture especially when you note the pillars,niches or brackets.

Influence of Hindu Temple architecture 

Another interesting thing that one notice is the application of blue glaze tiles on one of the roof and cupola.

Blue glaze tiles on the roof

Standing at the centre of the courtyard of this Palace I relived the history. Thinking how the queen lived, It is believed that she was politically involved in the administration through out her life until Noorjahan became empress. It was now time for me to move out of this palace to another part of the Fatehpur Sikri Complex and see what more it has to offer me. Till the time you absorb this historical journey soon I'll join you with the next part of Fatehpur series till then happy reading. 

Link to Fatehpur Sikri Part 2 fatehpur-sikri-series-part-2 DIWAAN-E-KHAAS

Thank You