Chandori Temples: A Forgotten Legacy

Few days back there was this news in Times of India newspaper which I came across and  which set the ball rolling for my next exploration.

The news was that in the village of Chandori, few temples which has got submerged under the Godavari waters have resurfaced again and that too after 34 years!, The reason behind the resurfacing of these temples were the drought like conditions in the state of Maharashtra  which has lead to drying of the Godavari river bed.

Dry river bed of Godavari river

Once this fact became known to me, I was restless to be there,for the simple reason that if it rains again, its quite possible that I may lose the opportunity to explore this submerged legacy.

Submerged Legacy

It is not everyday that you get an opportunity to witness something which is lying submerged for past 34 years under the flowing waters of Godavari river.

Past glory

Now the next step was to see how I can reach this place, luckily for me my friend Shashi called me and asked can I join him for the visit to Chandori Temples. Well now this is what I call Law of attraction at its best and without blinking my eyelids I said I was in.

We all left on Saturday night taking a last fast Kasara local train and by the time we reached Kasara Station it was 1.30 am. From Kasara we had booked Jeep to take us to the base Village. Following the google map we reached the Chandori Village.Upon reaching the Chandori Village we took a right turn from the highway to enter the village, as it was 3;45 am so asking for direction was itself a task as not a soul could be seem. Anyways a little drive into the village and we were near this Temple.

Temple from where the path from right side leads  to the Godavari river

It was quite dark when we reached here luckily for us we found one villager who informed us that we were on right way and the Godavari river is just behind this temple but one has to take a little walk to the right side from the side of this temple.One thing that was very surprising was the coolness in the weather and the breeze flowing in the village.It was decided that we would go down the river side in the morning and check out the temples as it was dark but then wanderers are wanderers so few of us started to walk to have a sneak preview of the temples.

Sneak preview

Exploration under full moon

I simply cannot describe you the beauty of the place, especially when you are able to see only deserted ruins drenched in the milky moonlight of full moon and with cool breeze humoring you. Well it was a sight to die for. How I wish I could capture that real moment on camera but my camera is not so efficient to do so still here I am.

Deserted temples drenched in the milky moonlight of full moon

We again came back to the temple and decided to catch little sleep, hence we slept on the floor of the temple till the day break.Most of us were not able to sleep as the breeze was blowing very furiously and it was too chilly, mind you all this during the times when average climate in Maharashra is 40 degree furnace hot.

Caught napping 

Oh ! I  simply loved this place. As I was not carrying any bed sheet so for me the sleeping proved to be quite challenging.

Sun was yet to come out, and we were all eager now to go and explore the Chandori Temples Legacy, so we all regrouped and started our walk all over. Moving from the right and a little walk of 2 minutes we come across a this bridge.

River bridge and temples behind it

Walking little further from the temple we come across this bridge which joins the Chandori to Saykheda village and behind this bridge one can see a series of small temples on the river bed and the on the other side of the river the sun was rising in all its glory, painting the scenery all around in golden sheet.

The golden sunlight lit these temples in such a manner that one could feel the magic of bygone era.These temple are in a row one after the other but at little distance.

Temples in a row

Today luckily for us the place was devoid of any water today hence we would be able to explore each and every temple inside out.  

Temples standing as on today

Few of our friends had visited this place 3 weeks back and they found these temple partially submerged in water hence they had little difficulty to check out from inside. I am sharing the pictures they clicked 3 weeks earlier.

Partially submerged temples clicked 3 weeks earlier ( PC:Vinay Y Jadhav)

The interesting thing about all these temples was that each of them had a shivling. In a way we can say that each of the temple is Shiva temple. 

Innumerable shivlings

Another most baffling thing was that there was more than 20 nos of shivling lying here and there and almost everywhere. For a moment I thought Am I I missing something? lots of mystery surrounds this temple I must say viz like how come so many shivlings, rarely I have seen series of temples with only one deity.Indeed I was feeling puzzled.  

Shivling here

Shivling there

Shivlings everywhere

Not much information is available about these temples on the internet and neither the locals could give us any useful information. No doubt they have cleaned the temples from inside and offered prayers too.At some places people who had visited had put flowers and garlands on the deities.

Garlanded Idols

Another garlanded Idol

I could not find much history about this place on the net, matter of fact even the Archaeological Survey of India(ASI) has no record of these temples except for the fact that the villagers last saw these temples in the year 1982. According to one of the reports that I read on net was that during the year 1907 Nandur Madyameshwar dam was built (Reference Nashik Gazetteer) resultant to that the water's course went over these temples and they got submerged under the waters.Since last 100 years only twice these temples could be seen this been the 3 time, otherwise mostly their top domes were visible.

3 weeks earlier picture (PC: Vinay Y Jadhav)

It was now time for us to start our exploration. Moving down from the bridge we checked out the temple nearest to the bridge. 

Visit to our first temple

The front portion of the this temple is under debris perhaps due to this reason one can see only the head of the Nandi idol rest of the body buried under the stones.

Sunken idol of Nandi

There were two idols on each side on the outer side of the temple.

Ganpati carved on outer side 

The carving on the temples are quite exquisite 

Exquisite carvings on the temple
(PC: Vinay Y Jadhav) 

Exquisite carvings on the temple 
(PC: Vinay Y Jadhav) 

I am sharing pictures of my friend Vinay Jadhav who had visited this place 3 weeks earlier because that will help you understand how different the whole complex looked with water still being there.

Pic taken on 1st may 2016

 From here we moved on to the next temple. most of the temples were of similar pattern except for the last which is of Indra god.Few temples has this kind of embankment.

Embankment around the temple

A little ahead of these temples we find a proper ghat with well laid out steps, In current times the villager use this spot for washing clothes and bathing.

Ghats been used for bathing

We relaxed here for a bit of a time and then moved on to the last temple which is also know as Indra temple. 

Indra temple with 2 real snakes
( PC: Vinay y Jadhav)

Watching all this neglected historical legacy of temples and idols scattered around like some waste garbage. I was not only pained and hurt but felt helpless and frustrated as to why nothing can be done to protect and salvage such beautiful architecture.

History or garbage

Is this the way to treat the national treasures

Utter Filth 

People worship God, Go for char dham yatra and what not, but are not at all pained to see how brutally these temple embellishments and idols are left at the mercy of nature to be seen floating around in the dirty waters.

Seeing all this I want to make a humble request to, then be it Govt of India or some NGO to come forward and adopt this site. Reconstruction can be done of these temples especially with the modern technology available.The local Sarpanch should make an effort to bring their village on map as a popular tourism spot.

Now that these temples have emerged and can be seen. Every effort must be made to see that this wonderful piece of history don't dissolves away into oblivion and remains only as news that these temples were seen third time during the year 2016.

With heavy heart and lots of questions in my mind  I left from Chandori Village to explore a new destination Kugaon Killa aka Inamdarancha wada( Click here to read out our new journey)  because I believe the journey of Weekend Wanderer is ever ongoing !!

Links:
Shashikant Dumbre Picture set of Chandori

Chandori Temples Journey video ( Click here for the video Film)

Special Thanks to Shri Vinay Jadhav for allowing few of his pictures for this blog.

Bhaskargad Aka Basgad

Though it was friendship day this Sunday yet none of my regular friends had planned anything therefore when late in the night I got call from Swapnali, I immediately agreed to join her for the trek to Bhaskargad Trek.( Honestly I am a sucker for any offbeat kind of trek, so it was simply impossible for me not to go) 

Lure of Offbeat Destinations

However one thing amused me in her invitation, When I said I am in, she very curtly messaged that you have to catch 5.20 am Kasara Local and don't miss the train at any cost !! Saala aise sunker trekker ego hurt no gaya, and I also replied back in the same curt manner and cheekily said "You can leave me if I miss the train" 

because I have been trekking quite long now and know the importance of the timing. But then dosto me aise nok jok chalti rehti hai. Friends you would be wondering what's the big deal about 5.20 am Kasara local, well the fact of the matter is that that if you miss this train the next one is almost at 7.00 am and due to this the whole trek can go for a toss.


Anyways we caught this train, I been the first one to reach Dadar station, After all who can withstand the wrath of a women.Rest of the gang also joined in and we were six people altogether. It was 7.45 when we reached Kasara. As we had not made any booking of Pvt Jeep prior hand so we had to depend on the local public transport. Talking about local public transport let me tell you that there is no direct transport to Nirgudpada, One has to take a jeep till Khodala Village and then take another jeep from there to the base village Nirgudpada.We rushed out of the station and boarded the local jeep, the driver kept cramming the people to the  extent that the jeep may explode.
16 people in an 8 seater 

Bundled together in jam packed Jeep

 Imagine how crazy India can go. Bhushan who works in Mahindra, we kept joking  with him ki Mahindra walo ko bol kitna kum space diya hai Ghadi me, model ko rework karo.
16 people in a jeep !! and no idea kiska kya  kider hai ... obviously pun intended.But friends Trek ke yeah hi majje hai, all the discomfort of the world only encourages us to be more tough and courageous. All the jerks and bumps not withstanding the journey through the Kasara ghat is one of the most amazing journey full of lush greenery, flowing rivers, multiple waterfalls and overhang of the clouds all around only add to the aura of mystic and beauty.

Lush greenery coupled with flowing river

Everything surrounded in a mist

In 45 minutes we reached Khodala village and from here we had to now catch another Jeep, Luckily for us one local jeep was there , ready to go for Trimbakeshewar Temple.

Jeeps waiting at Khodala Village to go to Trimbakeshwar

So we boarded the jeep and continued our journey further, Nirgudpada comes 20 kms before Trimbakeshwar so one can take jeeps going to trimbakeshwar. Our journey took another 40 minutes and It was around 9.30 when we reached the base village.

Base village Nirgudpada

Suddenly the rain welcomed us on our touch down at the base village so we all quickly rearranged our bags, all mobile going in and all raincoats coming out and we were all ready for our trek.

All set for the trek

Let me tell you Nirgudpada is a base village to another very famous Fort, Harihar and the proof of its popularity is the number of jeeps and buses parked at the village. 

Buses and Jeeps crowding the base Village

Harihar fort is famous for its 70 degree rock cut steps, Now its a different matter that with so many trekkers thronging this fort, I dread to think about the plight of people stuck in a human traffic jam on those stairs.

Trekker Traffic jam at Harihar

Thankfully for us no such worries, because we were not with the crowds, we were on our way to Bhaskergad aka Basgad Fort. Neglected and lesser explored by the regular trekkers.

Once you reach the Nirgudpada, one has to walk little backward and you come across the fork road,

Fork Road

Left side road is the one which is coming from Kasara so we should take the road on our right from this Fork junction and as you are walking  you will see Harihar and Fani Dongar on your right too. 

Fani Dongar from the road

the walk on this tar road is of about 15-20 minutes and you can in fact see the bhaskergad fort right in front of you.

Who would not like to take such pleasant walk

Basgad or Bhasker Gad fort on Top left side

 We took our sweet time clicking pictures 
Actually the scenery on both the side was so eye pleasing ki photo ka break toh banta hi tha

amazing eye catching views

as we were not knowing the route so we kept inquiring with the locals whenever we happen to see some hut.

Checking with locals about the route

After walking on this tar road at one point the tar road gets over and the katcha road starts.

Katcha road after the tar section gets over

A little walk from here and we come across a bridge and just 100 metres ahead of  this you have to take left detour to start the trek.

Katcha road and the bridge

Just taking the detour to your left from the road there is a muddy  trail leading into the woods. This is the start point of the trek from where the actual climb starts.

Your trek starts from this muddy trail

View after a little climb

This muddy path is just a gentle climb initially with some rocky sections but can be trekked easily.

Rocky section

and a climb of another 15 minutes we come across open area. from where following  the trail we took left turn and started trekking further.

Moving to the left from the plateau

After a little distance we soon reached a point where there was this small waterfall. We refreshed ourselves here

Time to refresh

We also took some group pictures as this place offered amazing views.

Mesmerizing beauty of Fani and Harihar 

With this micro break we started moving forward, all this while Fani peak was on our left, but soon we realised that we were on the wrong trail as we neared dead end, we retraced few distance and saw one trail going towards the right so we took right turn and started further climb

Taking right turn we come across a large clearing 

 Looking upward we could see the end of mountain and the skyline so we decided to reach there first.Taking switch back route we started our climb. 

Switch back climb

One observation that I want to make here is that in order to reach the fort the best bet for this trek is to just remember that the point from where you started your climbing you have to reach the plateau
and keep walking towards the left and while you are doing so, most of the time Fani Dongar and Harihar will be on your left and keep your eye on the top and once you reach the top another plateau is there.

walking on the plateau toward the rock formation ahead of me

start walking towards your left and as you do so you will see this gigantic Rock Formation. 

Gigantic Rock Formation

Once you reach near the rock formation start traversing from the right side and you would notice cave cut out in this rock and on your right is deep valley.

Traversing from the right

While traversing this path we have to be very careful because at few portions there are stream water flowing and crossing them becomes an extremely risky,

Risky crossings

especially in rainy season due to the moss collected on the rocks the stone becomes extremely slippery. Its my humble advise to future trekkers, please carry rope as a precaution.It could be very helpful for crossing this kind of slippery portion.

It's a different matter that we were not carrying rope with us but we took help of each other and managed to cross. In summer crossing this kind of stone section may not be difficult.

Helping each other cross the slippery patches

After traversing for few minutes we came across the entrance steps. This steps are cut through the mountain stone, The steps are quite high almost 2 feet  each, these stones steps are currently in a very bad state and with moss on it it has become all the more slippery.

Slippery stone cut steps

View from the top of the steps

OMG !!! how I wish
I was little taller to conquer these steps

 we gradually climbed and entered a narrow stone wall passage ( I think keeping  this passage narrow must have helped to trap or control the enemy from entering the fort). 

climbing through narrow passage

In ruins, Neglected !!

This narrow passage section is in complete ruins today. after passing through this passage we come across the main entrance of the fort. The only peculiar thing about this fort entrance is that it is buried in the soil perhaps due to negligence  over passage of time. 

Main gate partly buried in the soil

In order to enter this gate we have to crawl and enter because as you can see there is very less height. Upon entering I saw one more steps though they were not many.

Small steps after entering

Main gate as seen from top of stairs

View after coming out from that stairs

 After coming out from that stairs We saw that there is a little more section of climb to be undertaken to reach the topmost portion. So making our way through the overgrown grass we climbed further and reached the top. All through this walking and climbing among the overgrown grass the worry of snake popping it's head was always on my mind, I treaded carefully and thanked my stars on reaching the top.

View from the top is always beautiful

As I always say that the view from the top is always beautiful and it was no different here because far on the horizon one can see Fani Dongar perched majestically on the top and the huge Harihar and beyond that Bharmagiri fort in its full glory everything was enveloped in clouds the breeze so lovely and lush greenery spread far and wide made the atmosphere magical.

Fani behind that Harihar and behind that Bhramgiri

Nature at its best

We started to explore the top, right at the entrance there was this water cistern.

Water Cistern

From this water cistern we started moving towards the right of the top,the next thing we see is the ruined structure 

Ruined structure

After walking along this structure we come across another natural water pond and beyond that there was an Hanuman Idol.

Natural water pond with
Hanuman idol behind it

I offered my prayers and thanked for the safe trek.

Hanuman Idol

After exploring the top Swapnali and me returned back only to notice rest our gang was getting restless because it was nearing lunch time and here both of us were busy clicking photos.

Our restless friends and
Swapnali watching them

Sitting on Top of the fort and having lunch with friends is the most fulfilling experience, Some discussion , some time management strategy for the descend and we were over with our lunch and bid adieu to the top but not before Selfie le le re (La Salman Style)

Le le le le Selfie lele

Soon we began our return journey. we were very quick on our way
back finishing the descend in almost 1:15 minutes and then relaxing in the stream which was flowing.

Return transport is a big issue from Nirgudpada, we were lucky to get transport from there to khondala village and jeep back to Kasara to catch 6.18 local to CST.

We were told that there is a bus at 5 pm from Nirgudpada for Kasara, But we didn't wait for that. If you have any information regarding bus please help me to update.

All in all a lovely Friendship day trek. Special thanks to Tushar Patil for ensuring that we find the way and don't get lost.