Dwarka | Gujarat Series

It was around September 2017 when  I last visited Gujarat  and I was simply zapped by the beauty of Champaner UNESCO World heritage site.( To know more about Champaner you can check my Champaner Series Blog.)

The beauty of the ancient Mosques,Temples and stepwells stirred the wanderer spirit and nudged me to search for more such ancient sites in Gujarat and hence the quest to explore ended with plan to visit Dwarka-Somnath-Diu-Sasan Gir.

Once the plan was fixed I called up my friend Pooja and Nikhil who too wanted to come along and from my side my wife and daughter joined in and we were a team of 5 people all set to go

Gujarat here we come

As usual the programs are more of impromptu kind thus railway bookings in such situations are always a herculean task and this time too we ended up with RAC tickets. Gujarat trains waiting list are quite slow in moment hence even on the day of journey our tickets were not confirmed and upon that we were hit by another bomb when Nikhil called in to say that he cannot make it as some urgent work has turned up at his office. I take these kind of things in my stride because for a regular traveler these kind of situations are more of Deja Vu experience and like a seasoned traveler we have to work around all these obstacles, hence I requested Nikhil to meet us in Diu and this way he too can travel and only miss out on Dwarka.

We took Saurashtra Mail  which leaves at 21.35 from Mumbai Central and the train reached Dwarka in the afternoon at 4 pm ( Official time is 2:30 pm , our train was late)

After getting down from the station we took autoriksha to our hotel. During the auto journey to hotel I fixed up with my auto guy to take us for local sightseeing; Within an hour we were all ready and all set to explore local Dwarka today.

Dwarka is one of the Chardham, other three being Puri ,Badrinath and Rameshwar. Dwarka is also one of the Sapta Puri meaning that it is one of the seven most ancient cities of India. Dwarka is situated on the coastal strip of Gujarat.

There are so many tales connected with this city which we will keep narrating in the due course of my blog. For a start let us begin with the connection of Dwarka and the name given to lord Krishna "Ranchod Das"

 Jarasandha, the king of Magadha, had married his daughters Asti and Prapti to Kamsa, Krishna's maternal Uncle. After Krishna killed his Uncle Kamsa, Jarashandh was furious with him because his daughters were widowed due to Krishna. He decided to teach Krishna and the Yadavas a lesson. Since the Yadavas were concentrated in and around Mathura, he decided to battle them and destroy the race forever. 

These repeated attacks on Mathura forced Lord Krishna to move out of Mathura and settle at a new place. But to build a whole new city was not a joke but it was here that Vishwakarma the chief architect of gods in those days came to the rescue of Lord Krishna because when he was questioned as to how long it would take to construct a new city he smiled and replied that the city has already been built under water and can be raised above the sea water anytime on their approval. Infact behind this whole tale the was a name given to Lord Krishna i.e."Ranchod Das" meaning the one who ran away from the battle. Ran-Battle Chod-leave or run.( But one must remember here that lord Krishna didnt leave because he was a coward but because he was to save the subjects of his kingdom from the wrath of Jarasandha. 

Dwarka town is full of temples, you find temples at every nook and corner. "itne resturants nahi milege jitne mandir honge". 

As far as our journey was concerned we started our sightseeing the Laxmi narayan Mandir. It was a simple temple with not much to talk about. We had a darshan here and moved on to our next temple i.e Gayatri Sakhtipeeth Temple.

Gayatri Sakhtipeeth Temple

View from the Gayatri Sakhtipeeth Temple

Talking about Gayatri Sakhtipeeth, this temple is just next to the sea and is probably the only temple of Gayatri Mata in Dwarka. One Dharamshala next to the temple could be seem. I presume its associated with this temple to facilitate the religious pilgrims who come there.

View from the Gayatri Sakhtipeeth Temple

More than the temple I liked the beauty of the settings around it.

Impressive structures near the temple

The sea,the sitting area created across the temple, which of course is not the part of the temple looked very beautiful.

Sitting area near the Temple

Taking advantage of the ambiance we all took turns to indulge in photography.

Golden glow of the sun creating a picture perfect image

Trying different angles

Standing next to the temple one can also see Lighthouse which look very attractive with the combination of sea, stones and the sun.

Combination of sea, stones and the sun

From here on we moved toward the Gita mandir 

Gita Mandir is situated towards the Western Ghats of Dwarka, close to the Bhadkeshwar Mahadev Mandir. This temple was built by the industrialist family of Birlas in 1970. The temple is constructed using marble, which adds to the beauty of the temple. This shrine was built to protect the rich scripture, teachings and values of the religious book of Hindus, the 'Bhagavad Gita'.

Besides, the walls of the temple are carved with the hymns of Bhagavad Gita. We were informed by the priest that the temple ceiling is designed is a special way so that every voice heard in the hall is echoed.( I felt it was more due to emptiness of the hall). (Sorry don't have the pictures of this temple due to some malfunction with my camera here) 

The sun was on the verge of setting

The sun was almost on the verge of setting so we rushed toward the Bhadkeshwar temple , as I didn't want to miss the beauty of the setting sun on the horizon of the Arabian sea.

Bhadkeshwar Mahadev temple

Bhadkeshwar Mahadev temple as the name suggest was Shiva temple which is little away from the land mass joined by the cemented path built from land to the temple. The Badkeshwar darshan timing are from sunrise to sunset. The best time to visit Bhadkeshwar is around sunset when you get enchanted by the golden sheet of sea bed and the towering temple in that backdrop.This spot is so beautiful that you can indeed have panoramic view of the coastline with small boats blinking in the view on far horizon.

boats blinking on the horizon

Our first day at Dwarka was drawing to close and with heavy heart we had to bid adieu to the magical sea,Gentle breeze and those exotic birds but not before hogging few Panipuris, Bhuta and yummy Kesar pista Kulfi and finally boarded autoriksha to our Hotel.

Exotic Bird

Tommorrow we shall be visiting Nageshwer Jyotiling (Click here to read the next part), one of the famous Jyotiling out of the 12 jyotilings spread across the length and breath of our country India. To know more check my next blog on Nageshwar Jyotiling temple.

Traveler Tips:
1. Do your train booking well in advance.
2. Autorikshas are available from outside the station. some are big and can accommodate more than 5 people.
3.Autorikshas are not metered so do collect some info in advance as to the fare charged.
4. We paid Rs 300 for local city sightseeing.(year 2018)

Jodhpur Diaries | Toorji Ka Jhalra | Part 2

After finishing the Sardar Market (Click here to read part 1) we came out from the gate opposite to the Nai Sarak gate. Immediately after coming out we inquired from the local shopkeeper as to where is Toorji ka Jhalra,

Back gate of Sardar Market

Luckily for us he knew to the place and directed us.You must be wondering as what is this Toorji ka Jhalra, Well Chalo aaj aap ki class leta hu, Please bore mat hona Stepwells in most part of India are known as bavri or bawdi but here in Jodhpur it's called Jhalra. Toorji ka Jhalra is an ancient stepwell. One can easily reach this place by simply inquiring from the locals.

Narrow streets with Blue houses

 A little walk through the narrow alleys,local blue houses and in hardly 10 mins you are at Toorji ka Jhalra Stepwell. Standing at the road level one cannot gauge as to what is in store for him or her unless one climb few steps and reach the edge of the stepwell. That is the reason I didn't divulge any information to any of my co travelers, I wanted to surprise them. Hence just like a magician who is ready to unveil the secret magical object , I called all of them to the edge and  then called out to open their eyes. I  got the response that I was seeking  from them and yes it was simply   WOW.

I could see the sparkle in their eyes. Who could have thought that such beautiful historical treasures lies in the narrow alleys of this Blue city. 

Wow Moment

Let me inform you Jodhpur is full of such hidden stepwells,some are explored while some lies buried due to neglect. I'm told there are more than 100 such hidden stepwells. According to Rajyavallabh and Prasad Mandan, two traditional books on town planning in Rajasthan, an ideal city should have 40 stepwells. Ab dekhna yeh tha ki Jodhpur me kitni milti hai dekne ko So for a start Toorji ka Jhalra was the first one to be visited by us.

All over India, stepwells are on the verge of extinction, barring a few big ones that have survived  the test of time are being turned into local tourist wonders. Jodhpur, however, has the unique distinction of not only maintaining these structures well, but also using the water for domestic and recreational purposes. In fact, the city’s stepwell system is an example of what can be achieved through people’s participation.

\Why I said people participation, Actually due to neglect these stepwells were buried underneath the heap of debris, waste, mud etc but then the local volunteer through community efforts cleared and cleaned these hidden treasures.

View at the bottom 

Folklore.

While talking to the local guide,he gave me an interesting insight to these stepwells. According to him there is a folklore about Jodhpur having a curse. In the mid 15th century, the king of Mandore , Rao Jodha, was keen on moving his capital to an elevated spot from where he could defend the empire against frequent attacks by enemies. He found Chidia-tunk, a 125m-high rocky hill, ideal for this. However, inorder to build Mehrangarh Fort, he had to  encroach upon the hermitage of Saint Chiriya Nathji, who in anger cursed that the new city would face  constant famines.In response to  the curse the king realised  that they will have to safeguard themselves against this curse, Hence  town planners thought of this water conservation tool of stepwells.

Mehrangad fort is on the hilltop, the walled city of Jodhpur is located at the foot of Chidia-tunk. This made it possible to supply water through a gravity-led system. A vast network of lakes and canals were built in the hills around the city, while wells, stepwells (bawri), step ponds (jhalara) and tanks became a common feature in the plains.

Intricate carvings around Windows

Those maze of steps , the carvings on the stone , for me these stepwells are nothing but architectural delights to be relished.

Fact File of Toorji ka Jhalra

Toorji ka Jhalra was built in the 1740s by Maharaja Abhay Singh's queen consort which was in keeping with the age old tradition of ladies of the royal family building Public water works. The Jhalra was primarily used by women, as fetching and storing water was one of their principal household chores.The Jhalra is embellished with intricate carving of dancing elephants, Medieval Lion and cow shaped water sprouts.

Some more carvings

I think enough of Gyan for today. We were running like mad up and down the stone stairs of this step well enjoying every nook and corner of this well.

Running up and down, exploring every nook and corner

The water below have lots of fishes in it.The depth of the stepwells was nothing less than 200 feets.

Its Show time for the Gang

We took few photos to mark our presence. I had to drag everyone out because our next destination Mehrangad fort was beckoning us.

Our Team

DurgBhandar Trek, Nashik : Part 2

We had just finished our Bhramgiri Trek (You can click on this link to read), the source of Godavari river. We rested a bit,snatching few moments for early morning breakfast which extended from chapatis to pickle and nimbu pani and tea.It was now time to move towards our next destination, DurgBandar Fort. We left the temple premise and started walking along the railing towards the Shiv Jatta Mandir.

 The colossal plateau offers some of the most amazing views

each scene unfolded just like a picture book in front of us.

The undulating mountains left me speechless.

But just like a true traveler I cannot afford to fall in love with the place, got to move on..... Kyo ki  Nazaaro ke liye rukh gaya toh Manzil bura maan jayegi. 

Enroute to Bandardurg we first come across the Shiv Jatta Mandir. Its a small temple on the opposite corner of the Bhramgiri Temple.

Shiv Jatta Temple in other corner

Outside view of Shiv Jatta Mandir

Inside view of Shiv Jatta Mandir

 Now there is a folklore associated with this temple. It is believed that after the sin of Gau hatya (Killing Of the cow) was committed by Rishi Gautami he was advised to pray to Lord Shiva who will absolve him from his sins by releasing the river Ganga so as to wash away his sins, pleased with the penance Lord Shiva gave river Ganga to him, however Ganga was very attached to Lord Shiva so she refused to let go his hairs where she resided.Lord Shiva was infuriated and he started his Tandav Nritya and dashed his jata(Hairs) on the stone,frightened by this the Ganga appeared there.(Source of the story Internet)

Another thing that I noticed were these small stones kept one over the other, The locals told me that people do this so that there wishes are granted.I remembered seeing this at Bhimashankar Temple and yes even at few of the Himalayan treks that I did.Its all matter of Faith....Jider baat Vishwaas ki hoti hai.... toh koi logic nahi chalega

Peculiar Stone stacking ...its all about Prayers and wishes

Next to the Shiv Jatta Temple is a small water cistern or well, I was told that it has a potable water, Seeing the water I wont take the chances but on lighter note I would say as Indians we can drink any kind of water and nothing can happen to us.(Disclaimer: Don't take this observation of mine too seriously 😃) 

Water well next to Shiv Jatta Temple

 It was now time to move on from here to our next thrilling experience, hence we started to walk between the Shiv Jatta Mandir and the water well as seen in above picture, but towards the back side of the temple  to our next destination, that's Durg Bhandar.

View from backside of the Shiv Jatta Mandir

The walk from here was through dense vegetation with the valley on our left side our walk was through thick vegetation as we had gone after the rainy season.

Walking through the thick vegetation though irritating and dangerous  due to danger of snakes giving a sweet little peck on our feet 😅 ) but felt interesting due to the presence of lovely yellow flowers all around us.

and picturesque surroundings and the inviting looks of the dome shaped  Bhandardurg ahead.
 .

That's the place where we want to go....Bhandardurg
Here I come

this walk through the vegetation lasted for hardly a 10 minutes and we come across a small water cistern and little further walk as we start to really feel the presence of being near our destination and we see the dome shape of the Bhandardurg ahead 

Sanjog here trying to capture the
Dome shaped mountain of Bhandardurg.

Our trek is like walking on top of the mountain till we reach the stone steps.The picture below will help you understand our trek.

This walk abruptly comes to an end near a narrow passage with stones steps going down  20-30 steps and giving almost mystical experience as you descend to the bottom.

Mouth of the stone steps going down.

Narrow stone stairs 

Climbing down these narrow stairs were making me feel very claustrophobic, I actually hate close spaces but thankfully I was immersed in the eerie feeling of the place that I didn't realised when I had reached the bottom of this stairs but before I could let out  sigh of relief I saw this small hole like stone doorway through which I had to crawl to get out of this place. Hey Ram! ab yeh kya naya stunt ! 

OMG ! Am I got to crawl through this....No way

yes that's what my first reaction was.. Omg! am I to crawl through this...No way 😰, someone from the gang tapped on my shoulder and said "buddy this is the only way! well, ab marta, kya na karta, so Chal pada" a little crawl and I come out on the other side in a bright sunlight.

Uff...out in the sunlight again

Standing here I could see long ridge on which I had to walk to reach the outer side.

Ready to walk on this ridge

Walking on the ridge is always a thrilling experience as you can feel the breeze and the thrill factor is always on top form.As soon as this ridge walk ends We see another small entry door , something similar that we left behind so crawling time again 😄😄

Crawl time again

Crawling through this small entry door we again reach the narrow passage of stone stairs. so this time we got to climb to reach the top. 

Climb thru the dark stairs

Coming out of this narrow stairway we reach the top of bhandardurg but still little walk through narrow stone cut rocks were awaiting us.

Narrow stone cut rocks

Walking through this narrow path was quite awesome because the view of the lake and the civilization below looked very beautiful from here 

Beautiful views

There is a small bastion , where we all assembled together and had mini breakfast break with a group selfie thrown in and some personal photo shoot.

Selfie Time

I was here....Moment !!! 

It was now time to go back and the return journey was quick albeit the monkey scare that we got on our way back to the base.It was a fun trek which can be easily done in a day.