Solapur in a day | Part 3 | Bhuikot aka Solapur Fort

Bhuikot Fort means a fort that is built on flat land and not on a mountain.In Marathi language Bhui means Land and Kot means Killa or Fort. Thus the name Bhuikot.  Currently this fort is converted into a  garden and is under the ASI departrment, Located very adjacent to Siddeshwar temple pond, this place offers enthralling view. One Gets a good view of this fort in the backdrop from the Siddeshwar temple.

Bhuikot Fort in the backdrop can be seen from
Siddeshwar Temple

The Solapur Fort, also known as the Bhuikot fort is said to have been built during the reign of the Bijapur Sultanate of which Solapur was a part. Emperor Aurangzeb resided on this fort for a year between 1685-86 AD. Between 1795 and 1818 this fort was in the hands of the Maratha rulers. Bajirao Peshwa II lived in the fort.

External wall of the Solapur Fort

There are few very interesting stories about this fort which involves Dowry Theory. It is believed that Burhan Nizam Shah ruled Ahmednagar and Ismail Adilshah was in power in Vijapur , Inorder to strengthen the relationship between two states they decided to marry Adilshah's daughter with Nizam Shah of Burhan. The marriage was performed at this Solapur fort with great pomp.At that point of time(1523) Solapur fort was under the control of Adilshah of Vijapur and he declared that this fort shall be given as a dowry to Nizamshah. But after marriage he refused to give the fort which resulted in a war between the son in law Nizam Shah and his father in law Adilshah. Nizamshah lost the battle and fort remained with Adilshah. ( I am just wondering what happened to the wife of Nizam when her father cheated on her husband)

I think enough of history for the time being, now lets move on to our journey of exploration of this fort.

One of the bastion as seen from outside

Our Journey:

Early morning we finished our visit of Siddeshwar temple and moved out of the temple complex but not before trying our hands on the local sugarcane Juice machine. Travel me aise chote chote majje zaroor lene chaiye. Washing down two glasses of the sugar cane juice and listening to olden melodies blaring from the antique transistor was another highlight.

A small walk of 5 minutes we were at the gates of the Bhuikot. There was this ticket counter of ASI , we paid Rs 25 per person and entered the Fort Complex.

Entrance point with the ASI office

The moment you enter you are welcomed by the neat Garden and 2 Cannons pointing at you.

Cannons pointing toward the entrance door

The Cannons are well polished and you have the year of manufacturing on them, Monogram of the rulers. 

Year of manufacturing carved on the cannons

Monogram of the Rulers on the cannon

Over the years I have made it a practice to first explore the fort along the top of the Fort walls, which gives me good birds-eye view of the place and later I explore from within.Hence we moved toward the right side and climbed the stairs to reach the top of wall of the fort.

We climbed these stairs to reach the flag post platform.

Grass has grown at most of the places hence the watchman told us to be careful of the creepy reptiles.We smiled and nodded and went on our way.The outer side of the fort walls had lots of shrubs grown but the inside portion was easily walk-able.

Way towards the Flag post (PC: Dr Neha Mehta)

moving to the left from the stairs we reached the highest point of the fort ie. the Flag post platform. Standing here we could see the Siddeshwar Temple across the lake.

Siddeshwar temple as see from Solapur Fort

We spent some time here enjoying the breeze, absorbing the beauty around us and of course clicking lots of pictures

Today we realised what does the term leaping in joy meant 

Until pooja and me drew Nikhil Crazy😆😆and he has to throw his arms high in despair as if saying Kamino ab bas karo aur aage bhi badho. And both of us were like Hum nahi sudharenge, Ek photo aur Please 😛😛

 

Bola tha na... ki Hum nahi sudherenge 😆😆

Talking about the construction of the fort, there is a moat around the fort thus this creates Two layer of fortification one outer wall then moat and then the main fort wall. This main Fort wall is around 30 metres broad.Due to overgrown grass and bushes it was difficult to circumvent the entire fort. Hence we descended down the same stairs from where we had come and moved toward an other attraction of this fort, 32 Minar ki masjid .

32 Pillar Mosque

This masjid is on left side near the back end of the fort. Its an old masjid with 32 pillars. Basically its in ruins, Not maintained at all.

Low roof supported by the pillars

Moving inside the masjid you realise  that the roof is quite low and the pillars standing are all more identical in shape.

Identical Pillars

 We spent some time here and moved towards the Shiv Temple which is next to this masjid.

The structure is in complete ruins. Had it not being for the shivling at the lower base, Its difficult to make out that this structure was a temple.

Ruins of shiv temple 

The brown grill that you are seeing in the picture above, the shivling is place below that and we could see fresh flowers on it which meant that its used for worshiping. 

Shivling with fresh flowers

What I found strange about this temple was that the pillars here too looks quite similar to the one that I saw in the masjid. The question in my mind was did the  same ruler made both masjid and temple or this structure was something else and now shown as temple...

Please note the design of pillars

History often leaves so many questions open.I would like to have your views in comment column what is your take on this. 

From here on we moved towards the teen Darwaza which the ASI guy at the ticket counter reminded us not to miss. Actually the entrance of the fort in ancient times were from these Darwazas or Gates. But ASI had changed the entrance from the road side.

Main Gate of the Fort

The Entry gate of the fort is quite formidable, two bastion like pillars with a windows  along top is something typical of the architectural  designs of those times.

This was the last site that we visited at the Bhuikot or Solapur fort.  Generally one hours is enough to explore this fort but it took nearly 2 hours for us.( too much time spent on photos and masti)  We were now quite hungry hence we planned to sit in the lawn of the fort and munch some biscuits and chips before moving on to our next destination Naldurg Fort.

To read about our journey from the beginning click here

MANIKGAD TREK

I was very disappointed when my trek to Garbett had to be cancelled due to my work commitments but luckily God has made Sunday after Saturday aur meri yeh holiday koi nahi cheen sakta mujhse and as incorrigible as I am, I started checking out if any of friends are going for the trek. Well at this point, Pankaj our master blaster trekker informed me that they are planning to go for the trek to Manik Gad. so chalti gadi me mai bhi kud gaya and I joined them.

All set for early morning train ride to Wadala

Generally when the treks are from Panvel side, I have to get up very early. So today I got up at 3.30 a.m and by 4.30 am I left my house and reached at the desolate booking counter with not a soul to be seen around, for a second I panicked and thought to myself  Bhai counter chalu bhi hai kya ...my logical reasoning was saying chalu hoga and thankfully the counter was indeed open and  a sleepy looking clerk gave me the ticket and I dashed to catch the 4.41am train for churchgate and reached Bandra Station by 5.00 am. From Bandra Station there was this CST local train of 5.13 am, which reached Wadala by 5.25 am. Pankaj my friend who had arranged this trek had told us to catch 5:36am panvel local train from Wadala.( I hope, now you understood why so much jumping around being done by me) warna kis pagal kutte ne mujhe katta tha jo mai trains badal badal ker travel karta. Mera bas chalta toh mai seedha CST local leta.


At Wadala Station  I met rest of the gang and we were all boarded on Panvel local. It was 7.00 am when we reached Panvel station. Where we were met by Sanjay sir and Mehul bhai. Both of whom had offered us their car for travelling to the base village. the group was split into  two groups and we were now travelling in cars to the base village which is Vadgaon. The route to Vadgaon is around 21 kms from Panvel ST stand ,enroute you cross Indiabulls Park , one gigantic Maruti Idol.

Enroute while driving from Panvel to Vadgoan
you see this gigantic Maruti idol on your left

 Just keep driving straight towards Rasayani (17.1kms) where on your left you will see long Reliance Industries Factory and driving further for approx 2.5kms from here you will see a sign board of  Manikgad and next to that signboard of  Vadgaon. From the signboard you got to take right turn and keep driving straight for around 1.4kms until you reach at a dead end.

Vadgaon signboard on the main road, Take right turn from here 

As soon as you reach the base village on your left you will see a general store from where you can buys biscuits, chips, water etc and yes even ice cream. ( I actually enjoy eating ice cream after the trek). Aur Manikgad ka trek katam  karne ke liye aap ko icecream toh milni hi chaiye after all you deserve it )

View from the general store , go from the right side

Little ahead of the shop you see the Vadgoan village, you need to take the road from the right side, the one which has Maruti temple. Keep walking till the end of the village, one very distinctive thing you will note is that the initial houses are little bigger and fancy but when you reach the end the houses are more of basic kind. Is the difference due to the stature or are the poorer people tribal. I wish I could have found the reason.

Walking towards the end of Village

We started our trek little late because our friends from Pune were so busy enjoying the waterfall nearby that they forgot that the Mumbai team was waiting for them at the village. Lekin aisi choti choti baate ho jaati hai badde badde trek me.

10:05am : Trek starts

We started our trek at 10.05 am. As we walked till the end of the village the route opens to a big field. The lush greenery and the majestic Manikgad could be seen.

Coming out from the Village the trek opens into large green field

A little walk and we are into the climb. This initial  climb is quite stiff  through some muddy trial. As you are climbing you get all the more beautiful view of the green fields on your left side , do catch a breath and soak the nature's beauty.

After walking for around 10-15 minutes you will see a diversion one going straight and one moving on the right, Ignore the one going to the right side, keep walking straight as the Mighty Manikgad is on your left side.

Some rock cut stairs on the way as we trek towards the fort.

10.25 am (Reaching First plateau)

After the stiff climb of 20 minutes from the base we reached the first plateau where we rested for 5 minutes. Relaxed a bit and took pictures.

Its Photo time 

10:38 am ( Reached the large plateau)

10-15 mins more of a gradual climb we reached a large field. It is like the walk from the forest breaking out in open. A natural green carpet is a sight to behold. we walked through the open field , almost getting our foot stuck in the muddy field. Once you cross this field you will reach the ridge section.

Walking through the open field to reach the ridge

 10.54 am. (Reached the Ridge)

The view from the ridge is amazing , one can see the Karnala peak very prominently. we all took opportunity to click few pictures here.

Once you reach the ridge you need to move on your left where you will see a large tree . recently they have also put up a signage on this tree. Once you take left turn at the ridge keep walking straight.

That's the way to go my dear friend

The walk on the ridge very easy, you walk quite a distance on a flat ground with Manikgad looming ahead of you. the breeze is very pleasant. Boss jitna enjoy karna hai yahan enjoy kar lo kyo ki aage kuch aur hi milne wala hai. this flat walk lasted for 30 minutes until we entered the forest portion of this trek.

Easy walk, enjoy it to the maximum

11.20 a.m ( Entry into the forest )

After this walk on the ridge you see more of trees with lesser open field and you realise that you are entering in the forest. The walk in the forest was coming as blessing in disguise for us because the sun was becoming hotter by the moment and humidity was killing us. (Kehne ko hum monsoon trek per nikle the...sab popat ho gaya)

Time to enjoy the forest walk

As you walk this jungle trail lots of small streams comes on your way, at places the trail is little rocky and confusing,but keep walking straight till you reach a point where there is this large tree and a small waterfall kind of setup. one needs to turn right from here. Please be careful especially during the jungle trail as  I was told that people often get lost in this jungle and they had to be rescued.

confusing trail routes

11.52 am (Reached the diversion point)

30 minutes walk into the forest and we reach the diversion point from where we take right turn. landmark huge tree in front and a waterfall on your left ( water may and may not be flowing as its a small waterfall).

Trekkers have put markers in forms of stones , placed one above the other

12.12 pm (Hanuman Temple)

From the diversion point we hiked for  ten minutes reach the Hanuman temple, the trail go up and down but is an easy walk, We paid our respect to Hanumanji and moved on. Behind the temple there was a board on which some one had written that climb to Manikgad is just 10 minutes away and on the left.

Hanuman temple in the jungle with the board behind

As we had hired a guide so finding this spot to climb on the left side was easy otherwise it can be tricky task. In other words here lies another point from where we can miss the trail. In 8 minutes we were indeed near to our climb point and started the climb. This climb was again stiff till we reached the flat portion of lush greenery and with nature doing its dance of joy. 

Sitting and reminiscing the Daffodil poem

I sat there and could actually empathise with the feelings of the famous poet William Wordworths, who in his poem Daffodils says and I quote

"The waves beside them danced; but they

Out-did the sparkling waves in glee:

A poet could not but be gay,

In such a jocund company:

I gazed—and gazed—but little thought

What wealth the show to me had brought:"

The green grass was so inviting that I felt like skipping rest of the trek. As the humidity was also taking its toll on me.(This was bound to happen because I haven't been trekking lately and fitness levels are at abyss).Meanwhile Mehul our friend who was happily clicking my pictures felt pain in his shoulder and gradually dropped his speed. a small suggestion I would like to give, Please don't attempt to do this trek if you are not physically fit. It indeed test your endurance.

Enjoying the green slopes with sanjayji

The next climb from this grassy green land is a rocky trail and steep too, I was almost running out of my breath. Ek point per toh I could actually hear my heart pounding.
Par yeh kis ne kah diya tha ki jannat yu hi naseeb hoti hai, 
Arre uske panne ke liye khub mushakkta karni hogi.

I stopped took a sip of a water and rested for a while, Body is getting old, I got to realise this because but my younger friends were hopping away to the top. Honestly speaking I hated this last portion because Har time lagta tha peak aagaya and then the mountain calls "April fool banaya "and you see another climb.

Me: Sanjayji lagta hai top aagaya hai
Sanjay : Pakka na, is baar no april fool !! 

1.25 p.m Reached first water tank at the base of the top.

First water tank  near the Top

I felt like a dead meat on reaching the top. Seeing the water filled water tank was so refreshing  But I was soon given a rude reality check when our younger friends were waving from the top some 100 feets above. I was like Oh Shit abhi aur baki hai. 

This is the Oh hell moment standing at the first water tank.
Please look closely at small figures of our friends on top

Body was aching , heels were squealing with pain and seriously I wanted to give up but I somehow pushed myself Aisa laga ki itne paas aakar bhi na upar gaye toh hamesha koste rahenge apne aap ko. Jai bajrangbali bole aur nikal pade. Actually the cool breeze and sudden rain shower only helped me and I was finally at the top at 1.52 pm.


Nothing much is left on the top except for few ruined fortifications wall.

Ruined fortification wall

 Then there is a small gate which has a ganesh idol carved on it.

I entered through this door and came across a huge water tank. We were told that this is a potable water and remains available through out the year.(Request to the visitor to this place , please don't throw any waste or put your feet in the water tank as they serve like a life line for a hapless trekker who may come here during the summers)

large water tank at the top

 and just little ahead there is a small Mahadev Temple.

 We all sat down near the watertank and had continental lunch ranging from cakes,kakaras, idlis,bakewadi parathas,omlets. Clicked few pictures and moved on for descend at 3.00pm.

Extravagant  and  sumptuous Lunch 

The descend was uneventful except for the fact that our friend Mehul who had decided to give up the trek halfway was waiting for us at the ridge and with whom we all reunited and he welcomed us back with yummy cheese slices.It was 6.20 when we finally finished our trek.

Trekker Tips :

1. Start early
2. Better do this trek in monsoon, In any other season it could be          very high on endurance.
3. Take a guide( Its a small cost but necessary here)
4. If doing this trek in summer carry lots of water even though the        water may be available on top.
5. Stay, Food and Guide can be arranged at the Vadgaon. Our local      contact was Rahul Jambhulkar mob no : 9011807551


Trek break up:

1 hr from base to Ridge
30 minutes walk on ridge till you enter the forest.
30 minutes approx walk in the forest and you reach the diversion to right side point.
10 minutes till hanuman temple
10 minutes till the next ascend on the left.
1.20 minutes to reach the first water tank on top
20 minutes to the final top.

Total time for the trek - 7hrs 20 minutes
 To climb 4 hrs &
 To Descend 3 hrs 20 minutes ) 


How to Reach:

BUS: S.T buses are available from Panvel ST stand to Vadgoan. (the bus will drop you in the market from where you need to catch auto or walk 1.5 kms to raech the base village of Manikgad)

CAR : Panvel-Rasayani-Vadgoan


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