Rani ki Vav with Weekend Wanderer

Our visit to Modhera sun temple was simply out of the world experience for us . You can click here to read about Modhera Sun Temple.

It was 12.45 pm and the sun was hitting hard. We came out of the Sun Temple complex and moved toward the road outside. I was told that I could get buses from here to Patan however after waiting for more than one hour when no bus turned up, we thought of asking the locals as to how we go about. The shopkeeper told us to go to the main highway from there we can get buses going to Patan. Luckily an auto was passing by we paid him 20 Rs and he dropped us on the main highway and from there we took the bus going towards Patan.

Modhera Sun Temple

We checked into the hotel at Patan. Our Hotel was very near to the Patan ST stand and char rasta. After getting refreshed and finishing our lunch we set out for Rani ki Vav. It was 3 pm when we took auto from the char rasta or Siddhpur cross road. The Auto guy charged us 80 Rs from here for one way to Rani ki Vav. Passing through this dusty town was another unique experience for us city mongers. In 15 minutes we were at the gate of Rani ki Vav Complex.

Road map to Rani ki vav from Siddhpur Cross Road

I am always fascinated by the mystic and the beauty of the step-wells and I had made it my agenda to visit as many as I can in my life time.

Actually it all started with my visit to Jodhpur last year around this time only, where we visited Toorji ka Jalra. I was so enamoured by the beauty of Toorji ka Jalra and as they say ki dil mange more, so I started to research on step-wells in India and the most prominent name that popped out of this research was Rani-ki-Vav.

Rani ki Vav at Patan is one of the UNESCO World Heritage sites in Gujarat. The other one been Champaner in Pavagadh, which incidentally I was lucky to visit last year.

You would be interested to read this Champaner Visit 

I feel privileged to be here 

The sun was hitting us hard as we entered the complex of Rani ki vav. Here too we purchased entry ticket for Rs 15 per person and moved in , only to be welcomed by a beautiful garden. Lush greenery and the gentle breeze of the trees within the garden made us forget all about the heat of the sun. we did some photo shoot and moved on towards the Rani ki vav.

Lush Green garden before  Rani ki Vav

Rani ki Vav is basically an  temple you can say, thus as we moved on towards it we couldn't see any structure until we reached the edge of a large pit and realize wow... Yaar aisa bhi kuch ho sakta hai . I almost froze with awe and for few moments I was transported to the ancient Egyptian World when I saw the broad stone cut stairs leading down and the series of pillared structure standing in front of me.

Wow...For Rani Ki Vav

Rani ki Vav  or should  I say Queen's Step-well is an intricately carved step-well which is situated on the banks of Saraswati river in Patan. It is believed that these step well was built as a memorial for King Bhima I by his widowed Queen Udyamati. Its hard to believe that  these step-well was lost to nature due to flooding of Saraswati river. The entire step-well were submerged in mud but to to the efforts of ASI( Archaeological Survey Of India) these step-well were excavated from the silt in the year 1980.

This Vav is laid out in the east west direction with the actual well in the west portion.

The grandeur of the Vav can be envisaged by the size of it. It ad-measures 64 metres long, 20 metres in width and 27 metres in depth. Then there are well laid out pillared multi storied pavilions.

Rani ki Vav is believed to be one of the largest and the most sumptuous structure of its kind. Its due to this brilliance that it was awarded the status of UNESCO world heritage site in the year 2014.  

Multi-storied Pavilions 

We started to go down the stairs of Rani ki Vav, we realised that its indeed deep, Mind you its a seven level structure however currently only five could be visited. While descending on the steps we come across the treasures of Architectural brilliance and the artistry of the ancient era. There are panels running around the side of the Rani ki vav which has innumerable idols carved on them.

 The major theme is of Lord Vishnu in Dashavatar or 10 incarnation of Lord Vishnu in form of Kalki, Bamana, Narsimha, Matsya, Kurma,Varaha,Parshuram,Rama,Krishna, and Buddha.

Varaha Avatar of lord Vishnu

Bamana Avatar Of Vishnu

 Then there are carvings of female figures depicting various poses of Apsaras, Nagkanyas, Yoginis.

Few female Idols 

And another female idol

The Pavilions or floors so made are supported by the intricately carved pillars . These pillars looks very beautiful.

Beautiful carved Pillars

Intricately carved Pillars supporting the floors

Standing in the centre portion of Rani ki vav when I look up I feel dwarfed by the plethora of mind blowing sculptures all around me. Be it be thenshola Singhar of Apsaras or different forms of dieties. I was told that there are closely 800 carved idols in Rani ki Vav !! Dimag ki bhatti ab poori gul ho gayi, 

Laga kya cheez banayi Rani Udaymati ne. Mera Salaam 

Plethora of mind blowing sculptures

Different Deities 

Lord Vishnu with Dancing Apsaras

Absorbing the awesomeness of the place we finally reached the lowest level where the actual well with water is lying. Once we reach the end of the we saw the Vishnu carving in a recline pose lying on the serpent.

Lord Vishnu lying in recline pose

Talking to one of the local I was informed  that there is also a secret passage at the bottom stairs which is believed to be 30 kms long and often used during escapes.He also told us that as per folklore ,in olden days there was a forest surrounding the rani ki Vav and there were many trees which had ayurvedic medicinal qualities due to which the water in the well too got that medicinal effect and hence anyone who drank the water got cured from diseases. Hearing this Dil me se ek hi awaz aayi... It happens only in India !! 😂😂😂

Did this well had water containing medicinal qualities ?

We spent some time admiring the beauty of this labour of love, presented by a queen for her husband's memory and true to her wish this Vav braving the nature's onslaught has survived and had truly become immortal. Talking of immortality the new 100 Rs note has this Rani ki Vav printed on it. Mera bas chalta toh mai sab se bade note per Rani ki Vav chap deta. Fhilhal toh iski chap, zindagi bhar ke liye mere dil per chap gayi hai.( If I could, I would have printed rani ki vav on the biggest denomination note. Meanwhile the aura of this place is imprinted on my heart)

It was now time for us to return, so with heavy heart we bid adieu to Rani ki Vav but with a promise that I will return back.

How to Reach:

Road: Rani Ki Vav is located in the Patan area of Gujarat. It is a popular 1-day trip from the city of Ahmedabad which is 127 km away. Several buses and rented vehicles ply between Ahmedabad and Patan.

 Rail:.The nearest railhead is Mehsana which is at a distance from 55 km from Rani ki Vav. You can take a bus or cab from Mehsana to reach Patan. It takes close to 1 hour 30 minutes. 

Air:The nearest airport to Rani ki Vav is Ahmedabad airport at a distance of 123 km. You can take a bus or a cab from the airport to reach Rani ki vav.

Thank you for reading my blog. Please do click on join the site button and join me in my journeys. 

Champaner Series | KEVADA MASJID | Part 4

After getting chased by the Buffalo at Iteri Masjid (click on this if you want read my earlier adventure).I started to move towards the next monument,which was Kevada Masjid. I had the google map opened on my phone so I knew how far I had to go. However to the credit of the administration they have put up the sign board for direction to Kevada Masjid. 

Signboard of Kevada Masjid 

  

All alone (as this was my solo trip) with only the silence of the wilderness I walked on and suddenly after few minutes of walk, I felt I saw a fleeting figure cross my path, my heart was in my mouth for a second. I was pretty sure that something has indeed whizzed past in front of me, so holding my breath and clinging to my camera I moved forward gingerly.

The lonely Trail

I could almost hear my heart thumping and I was cursing under my breath at my foolhardiness to venture out solo here. The thing in the bushes moved again and from the corner of my eyes I stole a glance and saw the figure! One look and I heaved a sigh of relief because it was a Peacock ! 

A little more walk and I had my first glimpse of this lovely Kevada Masjid.  

First Glimpse of Kevada Masjid

For me the most interesting thing was to see Mosque and a Cenotaph together in one enclosure.With my limited knowledge I always associated Mosque with Islamic culture and Chatris or Cenotaphs with Indian culture hence this was indeed something new for me.

The Cenotaph

I clicked these pictures from outside of the fenced compound and could see a lone caretaker sitting there. He saw me climbing the fence and was about to shout, but stopped when he realised that I was not jumping over it but only trying to get a good angle for my picture. I waved at him and asked as to where the actual entrance to the compound is. He pointed the direction and I came over to the main entrance.

Signboard at the entrance

As this Masjid comes under Champaner UNESCO world heritage site, I must say its very well maintained by the ASI (Archaeological Survey of India).When I reached the main gate surprisingly the gate was latched,but not locked hence I opened it to enter. I was wondering, that had I not seen the caretaker sitting under the Cenotaph, there was every possibility that I would have checked it out from outside the fence and gone away.

Just as one enters the compound, we see a gigantic Cenotaph but not before climbing few steps.next to the steps there is a water tank. But unfortunately it was fully dried up.

Stairs leading to the Cenotaph and the mosque

Kevada Masjid is a rectangular plan masjid with a double storeyed main prayer hall which was built during the reign of Mahmud Begda (1458-1511 AD).

Front of  Kevada Masjid

There are two minarets on either side of the central arched entrance which has intricate cravings where niches are filled with floral and geometrical designs.

Two minarets on either side of the central arched entrance

Imposing Minarets

There are windows on both the sides, next to the Minarets and these windows are provided with a designed brackets.

Windows on both sides of entrance

Intricate Carvings on pillars

Floral Designs

Bracketed balcony on the windows

Some more beautiful designs.

In its original form the mosque had three domes built above the prayer hall.

The largest central dome built above the prayer hall had collapsed.

Collapsed dome

but if you ask me, this collapsed dome was highlight of this Mosque, after all it gives you a fantastic angle to shoot the  photo 😍😍😍😍 . Believe me the photo shown below was one of the reason I was here 😃

In the prayer hall I saw this niche in the wall with floral design around it, Though I was in the mosque but the design had more of hindu culture.

Niche with floral designs

It was time to move out so I bid adieu to the Kevada Masjid but not before clicking few last pictures of the towering Cenotaph.

Towering Cenotaphs

My next destination was Nagina Masjid. Stay tuned for my next blog on that. Thank you for reading my blog 

Champaner Series | Iteri Masjid | Part 3

After exploring the Shaher ki masjid(Click here to read), I enquired with the the security guy as to where the other mosques are. He advised me to check out other mosques like Kevada Masjid and Nagina Masjid first and in the end finish my exploration with Jami Masjid. In fact most of the tourist who come here generally go to  Jami Masjid first. 

As advised by the security guy I ventured to explore Kevada Masjid, Taking the directions from him I set out , little walk and on my left I saw this gate of custom house.

Custom House

 I think it housed Govt office so I didn't go inside to check out. Again a little walk into the village Yes! within the walls of Champaner you find these small village houses, reaching at a T section I turned left with the boundary walls of the heritage site quite visible on the right side.

Boundary walls on the right side quite visible

Its here I got little confused when a villager told me to turn around and take the route exactly opposite to where I was walking. I said but the sign board say its on this side. He mocked at me and said "Arre Is raste se jungle me kahan batak te rahoge", for a minute I was in two mind and turned back but I dont know what came over me and I started to follow my original instinct to walk through the thick vegetation route.(The thing he called jungle 😜 )

Exit to thick vegetation route

Actually only Shaher ki Masjid is within the fortified walls of the complex, rest of all the Masjids are scattered outside this complex hence I moved out of the complex from the exit door and began my solo walk.
Hey neele gagan ke tale, jungle ki aur chale 

Exit Door

 With only the sound of birds and not a soul to be around you, the feeling could be very eerie. 

Bole tho darr bhi lagta hai aur majja bhi aata hai

Dhadakta dil ek hi baat bol raha tha woh Sholay wala dialogue                                    "Bhai Itna sanaata kyo hai"

Itna Sanaata kyo hai bhai

Sunsan raste per chalte hue ek minute ke liye yeah khayal bhi aaya ki, yahan akele me koi loot kar legaya toh... 

well actually these are honestly the vagaries of a Solo backpacker, walking little more deeper into this lonely track I saw this board of Brick Masjid alias Iteri Masjid . "Arre but no one told me anything about this Mosque".

Sign board of Iteri Majid and Amir Manzil

I took the left turn from the signboard and walked further, Just because I had seen the sign board so I was feeling confident that I'll find the place otherwise the track was too lonely and dense for my comfort. In fact at one moment my heart came in my mouth when I saw moment in the bushes and next moment PLOP! out jumps the peacock and run over towards the bushes on other side. Sigh !

The path was getting more dense

Just when I was losing all hopes I see this hopelessly standing Masjid of bricks in front of me.

Iteri Masjid

But before I could jump with happiness at my find, I saw few of these Buffalos grazing and seeing an intruder like me with swinging camera and walking towards them must have startled them, Perhaps that is the reason  they gave me fierce and fiery looks which almost stopped me in my tracks. 

Aa Dekhe Zara moment

Sach pucho toh yeh "Aa Dekhe Zara kisme kitna hai dum" moment tha. Half shivering I bravely stood my ground and took the picture of Brick masjid from a distance. "Ab yeh pata nahi tha ki woh kali bhains mere se utna hi darr rahi thi jitna mai usse."

Mere angane me tumhara kya kaam

I took few pictures and started to walk further in search of Amir Mahal, but after walking for 10 minutes I came to a dead end hence I retraced my steps till I was again at the Brick Masjid.( Sadly I didn't find Amir Mahal) 

View of Iteri Masjid

Luckily this time those dangerous looking baffalos had moved out. Garnering some courage I candidly moved near this Mosque to have closer look.

Closer looks of the Iteri Masjid

I climbed on the broken wall to reach the mosque platform to entered the Mosque. As the wall was narrow hence I had be be careful and worst the bricks were unevenly place. Ek khayal aaya tha tab, ki agar gir gaya toh koi utane hi nahi aayega aur phir ghabrat me woh kali bhains bhi yad aayegi

Narrow broken wall from where I climbed 

Upon reaching the top of platform I realised that there is not much to be seen. So the next best thing that I could think of was to shoot this Mosque from different angle. 

Angle Play

The plaster of this mosque has come off, exposing the bricks , probably that is the reason for the name Brick Masjid.

 Though on the minarets of the centre entrance few dilapidated carvings could be seen.

There was hardly anything behind the structure except for few ruined walls of the rooms and some overgrown grass.

Ruins behind the Mosque Facade

I wanted to explore little deeper but got worried that some snake may pop out from the grass to greet me Good morning 😅😅😅😅 

Socha aaj ke liye Bhains aur peacock ka fright kafi tha....


This mosque is in total neglected state, No ASI sign, no gate, no caretaker.

Dilapidated Walls of masjid

Probably it may not be so significant structure of its times. But who cares!

Hum toh woh hai , jin ko Dewaar toh chodo, Giri Dewaaro se bhi pyar hai, Hence enjoyed the moment and moved on.

Thank you for reading the blog hope you enjoyed the journey and be prepared to read about another beautiful Mosque i.e Kevada Masjid in my next blog, till then stay tuned.

TRAVEL TIP:1.Please carry your food and water.
                      2.Cap and Sunglasses could be quite handy.