Rani ki Vav with Weekend Wanderer

Our visit to Modhera sun temple was simply out of the world experience for us . You can click here to read about Modhera Sun Temple.

It was 12.45 pm and the sun was hitting hard. We came out of the Sun Temple complex and moved toward the road outside. I was told that I could get buses from here to Patan however after waiting for more than one hour when no bus turned up, we thought of asking the locals as to how we go about. The shopkeeper told us to go to the main highway from there we can get buses going to Patan. Luckily an auto was passing by we paid him 20 Rs and he dropped us on the main highway and from there we took the bus going towards Patan.

Modhera Sun Temple

We checked into the hotel at Patan. Our Hotel was very near to the Patan ST stand and char rasta. After getting refreshed and finishing our lunch we set out for Rani ki Vav. It was 3 pm when we took auto from the char rasta or Siddhpur cross road. The Auto guy charged us 80 Rs from here for one way to Rani ki Vav. Passing through this dusty town was another unique experience for us city mongers. In 15 minutes we were at the gate of Rani ki Vav Complex.

Road map to Rani ki vav from Siddhpur Cross Road

I am always fascinated by the mystic and the beauty of the step-wells and I had made it my agenda to visit as many as I can in my life time.

Actually it all started with my visit to Jodhpur last year around this time only, where we visited Toorji ka Jalra. I was so enamoured by the beauty of Toorji ka Jalra and as they say ki dil mange more, so I started to research on step-wells in India and the most prominent name that popped out of this research was Rani-ki-Vav.

Rani ki Vav at Patan is one of the UNESCO World Heritage sites in Gujarat. The other one been Champaner in Pavagadh, which incidentally I was lucky to visit last year.

You would be interested to read this Champaner Visit 

I feel privileged to be here 

The sun was hitting us hard as we entered the complex of Rani ki vav. Here too we purchased entry ticket for Rs 15 per person and moved in , only to be welcomed by a beautiful garden. Lush greenery and the gentle breeze of the trees within the garden made us forget all about the heat of the sun. we did some photo shoot and moved on towards the Rani ki vav.

Lush Green garden before  Rani ki Vav

Rani ki Vav is basically an  temple you can say, thus as we moved on towards it we couldn't see any structure until we reached the edge of a large pit and realize wow... Yaar aisa bhi kuch ho sakta hai . I almost froze with awe and for few moments I was transported to the ancient Egyptian World when I saw the broad stone cut stairs leading down and the series of pillared structure standing in front of me.

Wow...For Rani Ki Vav

Rani ki Vav  or should  I say Queen's Step-well is an intricately carved step-well which is situated on the banks of Saraswati river in Patan. It is believed that these step well was built as a memorial for King Bhima I by his widowed Queen Udyamati. Its hard to believe that  these step-well was lost to nature due to flooding of Saraswati river. The entire step-well were submerged in mud but to to the efforts of ASI( Archaeological Survey Of India) these step-well were excavated from the silt in the year 1980.

This Vav is laid out in the east west direction with the actual well in the west portion.

The grandeur of the Vav can be envisaged by the size of it. It ad-measures 64 metres long, 20 metres in width and 27 metres in depth. Then there are well laid out pillared multi storied pavilions.

Rani ki Vav is believed to be one of the largest and the most sumptuous structure of its kind. Its due to this brilliance that it was awarded the status of UNESCO world heritage site in the year 2014.  

Multi-storied Pavilions 

We started to go down the stairs of Rani ki Vav, we realised that its indeed deep, Mind you its a seven level structure however currently only five could be visited. While descending on the steps we come across the treasures of Architectural brilliance and the artistry of the ancient era. There are panels running around the side of the Rani ki vav which has innumerable idols carved on them.

 The major theme is of Lord Vishnu in Dashavatar or 10 incarnation of Lord Vishnu in form of Kalki, Bamana, Narsimha, Matsya, Kurma,Varaha,Parshuram,Rama,Krishna, and Buddha.

Varaha Avatar of lord Vishnu

Bamana Avatar Of Vishnu

 Then there are carvings of female figures depicting various poses of Apsaras, Nagkanyas, Yoginis.

Few female Idols 

And another female idol

The Pavilions or floors so made are supported by the intricately carved pillars . These pillars looks very beautiful.

Beautiful carved Pillars

Intricately carved Pillars supporting the floors

Standing in the centre portion of Rani ki vav when I look up I feel dwarfed by the plethora of mind blowing sculptures all around me. Be it be thenshola Singhar of Apsaras or different forms of dieties. I was told that there are closely 800 carved idols in Rani ki Vav !! Dimag ki bhatti ab poori gul ho gayi, 

Laga kya cheez banayi Rani Udaymati ne. Mera Salaam 

Plethora of mind blowing sculptures

Different Deities 

Lord Vishnu with Dancing Apsaras

Absorbing the awesomeness of the place we finally reached the lowest level where the actual well with water is lying. Once we reach the end of the we saw the Vishnu carving in a recline pose lying on the serpent.

Lord Vishnu lying in recline pose

Talking to one of the local I was informed  that there is also a secret passage at the bottom stairs which is believed to be 30 kms long and often used during escapes.He also told us that as per folklore ,in olden days there was a forest surrounding the rani ki Vav and there were many trees which had ayurvedic medicinal qualities due to which the water in the well too got that medicinal effect and hence anyone who drank the water got cured from diseases. Hearing this Dil me se ek hi awaz aayi... It happens only in India !! 😂😂😂

Did this well had water containing medicinal qualities ?

We spent some time admiring the beauty of this labour of love, presented by a queen for her husband's memory and true to her wish this Vav braving the nature's onslaught has survived and had truly become immortal. Talking of immortality the new 100 Rs note has this Rani ki Vav printed on it. Mera bas chalta toh mai sab se bade note per Rani ki Vav chap deta. Fhilhal toh iski chap, zindagi bhar ke liye mere dil per chap gayi hai.( If I could, I would have printed rani ki vav on the biggest denomination note. Meanwhile the aura of this place is imprinted on my heart)

It was now time for us to return, so with heavy heart we bid adieu to Rani ki Vav but with a promise that I will return back.

How to Reach:

Road: Rani Ki Vav is located in the Patan area of Gujarat. It is a popular 1-day trip from the city of Ahmedabad which is 127 km away. Several buses and rented vehicles ply between Ahmedabad and Patan.

 Rail:.The nearest railhead is Mehsana which is at a distance from 55 km from Rani ki Vav. You can take a bus or cab from Mehsana to reach Patan. It takes close to 1 hour 30 minutes. 

Air:The nearest airport to Rani ki Vav is Ahmedabad airport at a distance of 123 km. You can take a bus or a cab from the airport to reach Rani ki vav.

Thank you for reading my blog. Please do click on join the site button and join me in my journeys. 

Gujarat Diaries | Modhera Sun Temple

Weekend was around the corner so naturally I have to be ready with another mandatory weekend gateway of mine  Ab aise hi toh nahi dosto ne naam Weekend Wanderer rakh diya na. Last Year during my trip to Champaner a UNESCO world heritage site I was zapped by the beauty of the different Mosques at champaner. that I started to research about other UNESCO world heritage site . It was during my research I came across this name of  Rani ki Wav in Patan, hence I started to plan my visit to Patan, To know the local details I called my friend Amit  who is from Ahmedabad, He said Aashish if you are coming so far why don't you club your visit of Modhera Sun Temple with that of Rani ki Vav.Sucker that I am for new places I said why not. So this is how the trip to this place materialized.

All set for new adventure

August is generally good month to travel with some rains , some overcast condition and lesser wrath of heat. So on 3rd August,2018 I along with my wife and daughter boarded Amrapur Aravali Express to Mahesana Station(19907) at 9.17 pm from Andheri station. Mahesana is the nearest railway station if you are visiting Modhera Sun Temple.

Time to catch the train

I prefer overnight train journey because it helps me in saving my travel time.Talking of the train journey, It was horrendous for me because a group of 12-15 people had boarded from Dahanu Road station at around 11pm and they were making so many noises, calling out to friends in loud voices and till 12.30 am this drama was going around. Atlast I lost my patience and told them clearly Boss Ek Ghate se aap ko seat mila nahi kya. Do you realise that you are disturbing everyone and So please better get your act together. Luckily for me no ugly scene happened and they took their seats. 

At 6.48 am our train chugged into the Mahesana Railway station.

Early morning at Mahesana Railway Station

We came out of the railway station and took an auto to Mahesana  Bus station which is near the Modhera Circle. From here you get lots of transport options to go to Modhera Sun temple. Auto guys charge 250 Rs, Sharing van charge Rs 20-30 per passenger, but mind you they cram the passengers like cattle. We paid extra for one seat so that 3 of us can sit without any discomfort. There are regular buses also from the Bus station but we were not in a mood to waste any time hence opted to travel by van which was ready to go.

Various Transportation options available at Modhera Circle, MAHESANA

A drive of 25 kms odd in 45 minutes and we were standing at the gates of Modhera Sun Temple. It was 8.35 am when we reached the temple. The entry fee to the temple for Indians is 15 Rs and for others Rs 200. 

As you enter the complex you are welcomed by the lush greenery an well maintained garden.

Well Manicured Garden

and walking down the pavement you come across a beautiful temple and a huge Kund (Watertank) which almost took my breath away. Honestly speaking I haven't seen anything so grand and impactful. Pehli Jhalak ne hi kar diya deewaana

First look or say Pehli Jhalak

HISTORY:

Before taking you with me on the exploration tour of this temple let us brush some history.

My heart aches as I stood listening to the guide at Modhera Sun Temple, as to how this beautiful and majestic temple built  around 1023-26 CE , during the reign of Bhima 1 of the Chaulukyas Dynasty,  was embellished with gold and precious stones but was plundered by Alaudin Khilji , who not only looted away all the gold but also destroyed the temple and the presiding deity. As the Hindus don't offer prayers to Khandit place. Hence today no prayers are offered at this temple.

Majestic and Grand

Architecture of the temple:

As you can see how geometrically the rocks are cut and designed hence its necessary to understand the architectural aspects of the Sun Temple.

The temple is divided into three parts
1.Gudhamandapa
2.Sabhamandapa
3.Kunda or Sacred Reservoir

                                         (Top to bottom ) (source Wikipedia)

Gudhamandapa, Sabhamandapa, Kunda or Sacred Reservoir

Suryakund:

As I said earlier also, this Kund took away my breath ,as I stood astounded by the beauty of the Surya Kunda or Ramkund. This huge rectangular stepped water tank measures around 176 feet X 120 feet . It is believed that in ancient times devotees were required to perform ceremonial ablutions here before going to the sun temple to worship the Sun God.

Majestic view of the Surya Kund

There are 108 shrines,carved in between various niches and corners of this Kund. The prominent ones that I noticed was that of Ganesha, Shitala Mata, Shiva and of Lord Vishu in a reclining pose.

Lord Ganesh Idol

Vishnu God in reclining pose

Shitaladevi  Idol

I spent good time running up and down the stairs clicking pictures from different angles. 

running up and down the stairs

Clicking pictures  at different angles 

My daughter and myself we were were so engrossed in photography that my wife has to literally shout at my daughter and me to get going. We could have easily spent all day admiring the beauty of this place.

Shrines dotting the kund

we entered the temple from the Kund passing through two giant pillars standing tall in front of the Sabha mandap. We were told that earlier there was a toran on that pillars which was destroyed by Alaudin Khilji, In those days it was a tradition to break the toran as proclamation of the victory. Today only this pillars are standing.

Tall pillars in front of Sabhamandap

Coming from the kund we passed through these pillars

Sabhamandapa or Rangmandapa is nothing but a assembly hall or a dancing floor. This place is another treasure house of intricate carvings which adorns the 52 pillars of this Sabha Mandap.

Maze of 52 pillars

The guide at the temple told us that these 52 pillars represents 52 weeks of the year . The carvings on these pillars depicts Scenes from Ramayan and Mahabharat, Krishna Leela.

Carving of Sita in Ashok Vatika

Carving of Hamuman moving the Parvat

Then there were some erotic carvings on some pillars

Erotic Carvings

The Sabha mandap opens in four directions. Coming inside the sabha mandap from the side you come across a Toran at the entrance.There are also carvings on the outer side of the Sabha mandap however they are not as intricate as the one inside.

It was now time to move on the the main temple the Gudhamandapa. This temple is not a practicing temple because there is no idol in it. However there is a unique feature of this temple. On Equinox days i.e. 21st March and 21 September the first rays of sunlight falls on the Surya God idol placed in the Gudha mandap. The folklore is that in the olden days as the light fell on the jewel of the sun god , the light was deflected from it to light up the other idols surrounding the Surya idol.

Inverted lotus petals and series of the elephant 

This temple is built on inverted Lotus form and the just above that series of elephants are carved. The carvings on the outside of the temple tells the tale of life cycle starting from the birth to the death in forms of carvings around the temple.

Child birth shown in the carvings

Then there are twelve forms of Surya God carved around the temple. One very prominent one was Sun God riding on seven horses.

Sun God riding the seven horses

There is also carvings of 8 Deities representing eight directions in the eight directions of the temple.

I am sharing few more pictures of the carvings on the temple.

I can go on and on because each idol carved on the wall has a tale to narrate, but the curtains have to come down and Traveler cannot afford to fall in love with one place. Jeevan chalne ka naam hai and we knew that this four hours spent in this Temple complex shall always be cherished and if god willing I am definitely going to revisit this place again.

It was 12.45 pm when we left the Modhera Sun Temple complex. Our next stop was Rani ki Vav at Patan.