Revdanda Fort

We had just finished our visit of Rameshwar temple at Chaul. (You can click on this link to read about our earlier part of the travel)

At Rameshwar Temple, Chaul

As we were leaving the Rameshwar temple, I asked the local villager to guide us to Revdanda Fort. He said Its around 1kms from the temple so we better take an auto and go to Revdanda Fort. Femina just like me, is a travel freak so she said "Aashish why don't we walk the distance, its just one Kilometre" and I too readily agreed to this because when you walk the village roads you often get to see village life more closely, chances of connecting with the local folk is so refreshing and interesting that you never know you make catch up with some local folklore.

Do Bechare

So, do bechare bina Sahare , Uparse Dhoop se mare, apni manzil ki aur chal pade 

Moving little forward on the road outside the temple we saw the road going straight and one village road diverting on the right,Following my intuition we started to  walk on it. little ahead of us one villager was also walking so I stuck a conversation with him and asked him to guide us to Revdanda fort. What followed was a little happy chat and an exchange of ten rupee note 😛 and set of directions.

Following the directions given by the villager we were on our path towards the Revdanda fort. Lonely but lovely path had lots of coconut trees providing the necessary shades, the breeze blowing was very cool and we were dying to rush toward the Revdanda Beach. Beach! did I say Revdanda  beach and not fort.

Well it was not a typo. Its indeed Revdanda beach. The fact is that Revdanda Fort is on the Revdanda beach only.




























 Come lets brush up our history of the fort.

History

Revdanda fort was a beach facing fort built in 1558 by a Portuguese captain Soj to watch over their trading interests. It is located in lower Chaul, which one comes across on the Alibaug-Murud road (17kms away from Alibaug). During the Portuguese times it was called Santa Maria de Castelo, but the locals called it Revdanda after Revati the spouse of the Yadava king Balrama.

(PC Nitin Nimbalkar) 

The Portuguese defended this fort against many invasions namely in 1570-71 and in 1594. It was captured by the Marathas (by the Angres, during the time of Nanasaheb Peshwe) in 1740 (Note.an earlier attempt in 1683, during the time of Ch.Sambhajiraje had failed). In 1806 it was ceded to the East India company and remained in brief control of the Angres in 1817.

(PC Nitin Nimbalkar) 

Revdanda-Chaul (Chenwal in Konkani language) has a history of 2000 years. Chaul (Simul,Champavati were some of its old names) was ruled in the medieval times by kings like Bhoja (12th cen) and Bimbadev (13th cen).Chaul came under Tughluq in the 14th century , the Bahamani sultans in the 15th century, Nizamshahi in 16th century, Portuguese in the 16/17th century (1505 onwards. In 1508, an combined army of Egyptian Mamluks and Gujrat sultanate defeated the Portuguese. The first Portuguese settlements started in 1521 with the permission of Nizamshah), the Marathas in the 18th century and the British in the 19th century. Chaul always remained a major trading port during the rules of all dynasties.

(PC Nitin Nimbalkar) 

There were also other forts in Chaul like Agarkot of the Nizamshah (destroyed by the Portuguese) , Rajkot built by Sambhaji (destroyed by the Angres in 1748) and Korlai (known to the Portuguese as Morro de Chaul or Rock of Chaul) which still exists in the vicinity on a nearby cliff. Korlai was captured by the Portuguse till 1739 until it was seized by the Marathas.

Revdanda had a chapel where St Francis Xaviers delivered one of his earliest sermons in the Indian subcontinent. Revdanda was also the first place in India where Afanasy Nikitin, the first Russian traveler landed .

Deserted Revdanda Beach

One look at the Revdanda beach and I was zapped. not a soul to be seen except for few deserted boats where Femina and myself we took turns to click pictures.Its very rare that we mumbaikar get to see such clean and lonely beach.

Making the most of Lonely beach

Standing on the revdanda beach we can see Korlai fort perched on the hill on the opposite side. We enjoyed a short splash in the sea and after coming out of the sea we started to move towards our right along the beach to go to Revdanda Fort. As we were walking We saw a group of people getting down from the jeep and just behind them I caught a glimpse water scooters.

 Wow so they have water sports here!

Water scooters at Revdanda Beach

We kept walking for another 5 minutes and we were standing near the Revdanda fort. All the crowd that was missing at the Revdanda beach were actually here 😂.

Missing crowd of Revdanda beach found at last

Though Revdanda Fort may have a great history but what lies today is just a dilapidated fort. The walls of the fort is completed eroded due to the sea water.

Broken walls of the Fort

As a fort it may not look so formidable in its present state but its a photographers delight to capture various moods of the fort and the sea. I think this wss the reason that we saw hordes of photographers doing pre-wedding shoots here).

Maine bhi mauke per chauka mara and chupke se ek pre weddind shot ka long shot le dala 😜😜😜

We spent some time clicking the pictures from outside the fort. There was a  small window type opening in the wall so we decided to enter through it so that we can explore the fort from inside.

There is not much to be seen in the fort  and as we went inside the fort we found it was completely covered with coconut trees and bushes.

Dense Vegetation inside the Fort 

Seeing the dense bushes we started to walk carefully and moved towards the tower like structure which we could see at far thru the trees.

Tower like structure within the Fort

 As we were walking through the bushes, towards this tower like structure, we realised our folly that the entrance route was from other side and not from where we were venturing. But then adventurous species that we are, both of us climbed the wall and jumped to the other side.

Pachpan me bachpan yaad aagaya 😜😜😜(of course for me only! because Femina is lot younger and fitter soul.)  

Once inside the compound we saw this tall tower. This tall structure is actually a Franciscan Church Tower inside the fort.

Franciscan Church Tower inside the fort
(PC Nitin Nimbalkar) 

Just outside this tower we find scattered cannons, another reflection of the past glory.

Scattered Cannons

We explored little bit and moved to Jesuit Monastery

(PC Nitin Nimbalkar) 

Ruins of Jesuit Monastery. (PC Nitin Nimbalkar) 

 which is in ruins and neglected state too. Other than this there was not much to be explored so we moved on from here to go to Kulaba Fort.

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Rameshwar Temple | Chaul

Sunday was around the corner,so naturally I had to plan something to satisfy my wanderlust. Thus I planned a day trip to visit Rameshwar Temple at Chaul, Kulaba Fort Alibag, and Revdanda Fort near Revdanda beach.

During my last visit to Vasai Fort (click here to read my blog on vasai Fort) where I was accompanied by my friend Femina, She had told me that if I plan anything in near future then she would be interested in joining me for my next trip. Hence I called her up and she agreed to join me.

We took 5;38 am churchgate bound local train and it was 6,09 am when we reached Churchgate station. In order to reach Alibag one has to catch ferry from Gateway of India to Mandwa and from Mandwa there is a connecting bus till Alibag. We quickly started to walk down till gateway of India. A 15 -20 minutes of early morning brisk walk we were at Gateway of India

We bought the Ferry tickets which cost us Rs 120 per person. As it was very early in the morning so there was hardly anyone at Gateway of India. we took advantage of this and clicked few pictures and then moved on to the ferry section. There were hardly few people before us so we were soon whisked away in the ferry where we ensured that we get the top deck.

Eyeing the Top Deck of Ferry launch

The advantage of the top deck is that one can get fantastic view of morning sunrise with the blurring view of the Taj hotel and the majestic Gateway of India as the Ferry launch leaves the shores.The ferry launch  left by 6.54 am and we were on our way. The coolness and the calmness of the morning is always amazing and imagine if you throw in the sea to compliment it the whole atmosphere becomes electrifying.

The blurring Taj and Gateway of India as we leave the shores

Our ferry launch was moving forward cutting the sea, The music of Bangra rap was been played out and across the horizon the sun was beginning to make its presence felt. The view was simply mesmerizing. One can see the golden sheen on the waves of the sea.

Golden Glow of the morning

Its the kind of moment when you want everything to stop. As were launch moved we were surprised by our morning guest and yes they were none other than the lovely Seagull flapping their wings and encouraging us to give them food.

Seagulls chasing us

The time simply passed away watching the beauty of the morning, that I didn't realize that our one hour plus journey is coming to an end and we have reached the Mandwa Jetty. We moved from the jetty to catch the connecting bus to Alibag. This bus ride lasted for 45 minutes so I thought of having a cat nap till we reach Alibag. 

Upon reaching Alibag , we went to auto stand where sharing autos go to revdanda. Luckily for us as one Sitara or big auto was standing at the auto stand and we were on our way to Rameshwar Temple. Again an auto ride of 20 minutes and we were at Rameshwar Temple. One can also take ST bus to Revdanda and get down at Chaul Naka to reach this temple.

First look of Rameshwar Temple

Rameshwar Temple is an ancient temple located in Chaul in Revdanda Maharashtra. Its an ancient temple of Lord shiva. I was given to understand that Chaul region is known for many temples.

Old temple but rebuilt again 

There are 365 temples in this region, One temple for one day I presume. This temple as per the local villager was built little in over a day by pandavas, however they couldn't complete it  otherwise according to him it would be only temple like Kashi which was built in a day but they couldn’t complete it. Later, Kanhoji Angre, A Maratha Navy Admiral completed the remaining work.

Ruins behind the temple

One must visit an elaborate entombment behind the temple. It is said that the memorial belongs to one of the Angres.(Though I didn't find any placard or sign saying so) There was only ASI board proclaiming that its a protected heritage site.

Ruins behind the temple

Rameshwar temple just like all Shiva Temples has Nandi in front of the main temple. 

Nandi in front of the temple

The temple complex is spread over a large acre of land. The temple dome stands 7.62 m tall. A huge pond is seen in front of the temple which is known as Pokhran.

Pokhran Pond

 There are two tall Deep jyoti stamb in front of the Temple. ( Its a tall pillar on which small lamps are kept and it adds to the illumination of the temple) 

Deep Stamb

Just as we enter the temple there is a large prayer hall supported by the colourful wooden pillars.

Colourful Pillars

Next to the prayer hall is another hall having arched pillars and  a shiviling in the center enclosed room.

Shivling in an enclosed room

and on the left side of the shivling room there is a Ganpati idol and on the right side there was Lord vishnu's idol and there are three kunds.   

There is a huge pond outside the temple which gives it a grand looks. During the local festivals aartis are down along this pond.

It was now time for us to visit Revdanda fort which is only a kilometre away from this temple. We paid our respect to the gods and moved on.

Thanks for reading the blog and stay tuned to visit Revdanda Fort and beach with me in my next blog.

Bassein Fort aka Vasai Fort: Part 1

The heat in Mumbai was burning the city crazy 41 degree Celsius, so thinking of going for a trek was not a good idea, But a wanderer is a crazy soul so we find ways to hoodwink the obstacles and make ways to kill the monotony of the routine.

I find my succour at Vasai fort

Whenever I find nothing to do I simply go and visit the forts in Mumbai. So this time I thought I'll go to Vasai Fort. Nothing was planned I just packed my bag and took early 6 am train from Andheri to Vasai. It was 6.47 when I reached Vasai station and came out of the platform on to the West side.

Sun was just rising,
making my morning all the more beautiful

 There are lots of autoriskha which ply from Vasai railway station to Vasai fort. But then they cost you a bomb, 120 Rs and that too for a distance of  just 6-7 kms. I dropped the idea of taking auto and came little further out of the station and inquired about the buses going to the fort. Luckily the Bus stop is just 5 minutes walkable distance from the station. The bus arrived in 5 minutes bearing the board Killebunder on it.The bus ticket cost me only Rs 15. A bus ride of 20 minutes and I reached Vasai Fort. Meanwhile while travelling in the bus I called Femina who stays in Vasai  to join me if possible, to her credit she not only agreed but  reached the fort very quickly.

I got down at the Chimaji Appa Statue.

Statue of Chimaji Appa

Upon entering the premise you see a towering Statue of Chimaji Appa sitting on a horse which looks very imposing and awesome. 

Let me make you little wiser as to who was Chimaji Appa

"Shreemant Chimaji Ballal Peshwa (aka Chimaji Appa)(1707–1740) was the son of Balaji Vishwanath Bhat and the younger brother of Bajirao Peshwa of Maratha Empire. He was an able military commander who liberated the western coast of India from Portuguese rule. The high watermark of his career was the capture of Vasai fort from the Portuguese in a hard fought battle." 
(Source Wikepedia)

Look of the Statue from the entrance gate

Standing on this raised platform one can see the boundary wall of the Vasai fort at the far end. Nothing much more was to be seen here so I clicked few pictures and moved on.

At the jetty side of Vasai Fort

As I came out of this place I saw someone waving from the autoriksha, on closer look I realised it was Femina. She left the auto and from here both of us started to move towards the jetty or the sea side entrance of Vasai Fort.

One can see ruins of Vasai Fort church from the Jetty side

Vasai Fort had two entrances one was from the land side and other from the sea side.You can see ruins of one of the church from the jetty side. Talking about the pillars on top of St Joseph Church, one local fisherman folk had an interesting story to tell, according to him there is treasure in form of gold coins and jewels in that pillar and if anyone tries to rob it, that person gets bitten by the snake who guards it.( I love stories chaye kitni bhi sahi ya jhooti)😜😜😜

Is there a treasure waiting for me ?

We now started our journey of exploration of Vasai Fort aka Bassein Fort.

Bassein Fort / Vasai Fort / Baçaim Fort :

The name "Bassein" is the English version of the Portuguese "Baçaim" (with the "ç" spoken as "s" and with the "m" silent), itself a version of an apparently native name that may have a connection to the Vasa Konkani tribals of the North Konkan region, extending from Mumbai into "South Gujarat." The Marathi name of the place is Vasai.

The complete form of the Portuguese name is "Fortaleza de São Sebastião de Baçaim" or the Fort of St. Sebastian of Vasai. The Vasai fort is a monument of national importance and is protected by the Archaeological Survey of India (Source Wikipedia)



As we walked from the Jetty we come across a huge Entrance gate of the fort. 

Entrance of the fort from sea side

What I found disturbing was to see how easily a small temple has crept up near the fort door and it clearly looks like new structure, so I am wondering what the ASI are doing ( Isaw one blog dated 2014 when this structure was been erected).

The entrance door was completely damaged and the iron embellishing it was completely rusted.

Rusted and damaged Entrance door of the fort

upon entering this entrance door we come across another door on the right, we walked through it and I saw a temple on my left and a little walk further we come across the St Joseph Church.

Lekin hum, hum hai ! 
Seedha Rasta humko dikhta kum hai ! 

It so happened that I saw a stone stairs going up on my left to the remnant wall. I quickly climb up because I wanted to have  a glimpse of the sea from top of it and I also wanted to take a top shot of the Church.
Locals call this kind of erratic behaviour as Khujli 😜

Top shot of Sea

Once I reached the top of the remnant wall I realised the meaning of term Kabab me haddi when I ruffled the feathers of a human lovebirds. Kamaal hai ek kona bhi nahi choda.

A traveler tip : Next time when you venture at such isolated place make enough noise that the lovebirds are forewarned and they untangle themselves from their compact compromising positions. 😜😜

Rows of boats saluting the sun

Leaving them on one side Femina and myself we both started to click pictures of the lovely sea with rows of boat standing as if saluting the morning sun. The chirping of the birds were loud and clear, the hum of the sea waves electrifying. One of the best mornings viewed by me.

Femina and Myself taking one deserving selfie

We left the cosy couple behind and started to walk along the narrow remnant wall parapet.This walkway was hardly 3 feet wide and bottom must be 20 feet so we had to be careful because as they say nazar hati durgatna ghati So please Don't risk it  and chup chap go from route going from below only.

Walking on this narrow path offered me a bird eye view of St Joseph Church from behind.

Back View of St Joseph Church
from top of Remnant Wall of  Vasai fort

As I was still on top of the remnant wall, I took the opportunity to click the exterior of St Joseph Church.

The blown away top of the church and those mystical towers were beckoning me to come and explore St Joseph Church. We quickly got down the next available stone stairs which was descending down though it was broken but we risked it.

All this running around up and down took the wind away from my lungs for a brief while, So Guys I felt I needed a break.

I need a break here

Talking of break, I am pausing here for while and I will soon come with next part of this blog.


So If you like to see churches of Portuguese times,bell towers,those swanky arches and Engraved grave stones on which the dancers danced to the tune of bollywood songs. 

Stay tuned second part coming very soon.